Hello. >>> 1993 Rover 820i
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Hello. >>> 1993 Rover 820i
Hi, am Mike.
Purchased a Rover 820i a couple of years ago due to my 1990's 'Car Lust' of not owning one.
My intention has been to get it out to some local or national meetings.
Based in Dorset I havent seen any local meetings in the South /South West Area.
So looking for some pointers of where there maybe some club meetings.
I have also a problem with the auto cut out while driving. So restricted myself on long runs. Have had it in with an old Rover Dealer, no luck.
About to change Fuel Filter and look and the Fuse Panel Soldering.
Any advice would be most gratefull.
Best regards.....
Purchased a Rover 820i a couple of years ago due to my 1990's 'Car Lust' of not owning one.
My intention has been to get it out to some local or national meetings.
Based in Dorset I havent seen any local meetings in the South /South West Area.
So looking for some pointers of where there maybe some club meetings.
I have also a problem with the auto cut out while driving. So restricted myself on long runs. Have had it in with an old Rover Dealer, no luck.
About to change Fuel Filter and look and the Fuse Panel Soldering.
Any advice would be most gratefull.
Best regards.....
Mike
Bridport ~ British West Dorset
Rover 820i
MG-ZS
Range Rover P38
Bridport ~ British West Dorset
Rover 820i
MG-ZS
Range Rover P38
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Re: Hello. >>> 1993 Rover 820i
Hi, and welcome.
What do you mean by "auto cut out"?
What do you mean by "auto cut out"?
Mark
91H 820i Auto F/B Nordic Blue 32k
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Re: Hello. >>> 1993 Rover 820i
Hello Mike and welcome
What Mark said in his post regarding the cut out.
What Mark said in his post regarding the cut out.
Simon
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Re: Hello. >>> 1993 Rover 820i
Welcome aboard Mike!
You've joined a little too late for the "big" show of the year which is the BMC/BL National Spares Day and Rally in Peterborough. Others may say that the PoL (Pride of Longbridge) show is the big one or possibly the one at Gaydon - each to their own is suppose but for me the Peterborough one is the big one.
You'd be very welcome to come along but it's a long way from Bridport and if you're having problems on long journeys probably not the best idea!
These problems you mention, as others have asked, what do you mean by "auto cut out"? Is the car automatic? Does the engine die after running for a while?
If so does it just cut out or is it more of a "cough........splutter...........cough........splutter..............die" scenario?
Does it restart easily immediately or does it take a while?
You've joined a little too late for the "big" show of the year which is the BMC/BL National Spares Day and Rally in Peterborough. Others may say that the PoL (Pride of Longbridge) show is the big one or possibly the one at Gaydon - each to their own is suppose but for me the Peterborough one is the big one.
You'd be very welcome to come along but it's a long way from Bridport and if you're having problems on long journeys probably not the best idea!
These problems you mention, as others have asked, what do you mean by "auto cut out"? Is the car automatic? Does the engine die after running for a while?
If so does it just cut out or is it more of a "cough........splutter...........cough........splutter..............die" scenario?
Does it restart easily immediately or does it take a while?
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Re: Hello. >>> 1993 Rover 820i
Ahhh!
Thought I had replied via my mobile yesterday.
Thanks for the replies guys.
The 'cut out' started a while ago with the engine cutting out and stalling while driving. It tended to start within 30 seconds.
Now it stalls while driving and just ticking over multiple times. I have had to keep the revs over 2K while in traffic/or at traffic lights.
Not much fun to drive! So not going out in it.
Local independent Rover garage saw a fault on the black rubber 'Ecu?' in the engine with an old spare. But not fixed the problem.
Will change the fuel filter this weekend.
I also see from some forums that the fuse panel may have dry joints, so looking for any advice on that.
Thanks in advance.
Mike
Thought I had replied via my mobile yesterday.
Thanks for the replies guys.
The 'cut out' started a while ago with the engine cutting out and stalling while driving. It tended to start within 30 seconds.
Now it stalls while driving and just ticking over multiple times. I have had to keep the revs over 2K while in traffic/or at traffic lights.
Not much fun to drive! So not going out in it.
Local independent Rover garage saw a fault on the black rubber 'Ecu?' in the engine with an old spare. But not fixed the problem.
Will change the fuel filter this weekend.
I also see from some forums that the fuse panel may have dry joints, so looking for any advice on that.
Thanks in advance.
Mike
Mike
Bridport ~ British West Dorset
Rover 820i
MG-ZS
Range Rover P38
Bridport ~ British West Dorset
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Re: Hello. >>> 1993 Rover 820i
The fuse board can cause plenty of problems, but not so many with the engine.
I'd be looking at the throttle body - take it off and give it a good clean in solvent or carb cleaner, taking care to clear the tiny idle bypass port. The throttle position switch could also be suspect, as could the pipe linking the plenum to the engine ECU.
Another thing- have you tried disconnecting the battery for a few hours? This will reset the engine ECU to its default settings and can alleviate all sorts of running issues, especially after another fault has been rectified.
I'd be looking at the throttle body - take it off and give it a good clean in solvent or carb cleaner, taking care to clear the tiny idle bypass port. The throttle position switch could also be suspect, as could the pipe linking the plenum to the engine ECU.
Another thing- have you tried disconnecting the battery for a few hours? This will reset the engine ECU to its default settings and can alleviate all sorts of running issues, especially after another fault has been rectified.
Tom.
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Re: Hello. >>> 1993 Rover 820i
Thanks Tom, Fantastic.
Will have a look at those great suggestions.
The battery has been disconnected recently, (as my stereo has gone into a 'flashing showroom' configuration, which I need to reset).
Looking at sourcing a Haynes Manual for this model to give a bit of guidance. (Have a Mark 1 Manual)
Will have a look at those great suggestions.
The battery has been disconnected recently, (as my stereo has gone into a 'flashing showroom' configuration, which I need to reset).
Looking at sourcing a Haynes Manual for this model to give a bit of guidance. (Have a Mark 1 Manual)
Mike
Bridport ~ British West Dorset
Rover 820i
MG-ZS
Range Rover P38
Bridport ~ British West Dorset
Rover 820i
MG-ZS
Range Rover P38
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Re: Hello. >>> 1993 Rover 820i
In addition to what Tom said ^^^^^ it could also be the CTS (coolant temperature sensor) or a split/pinhole in the rubber hose between the throttle body and the airflow meter.
All of these diagnostic suggestions assume the rest of the "basics" are right - spark plugs, dizzy cap, rotor arm and so on.
Also the Lambda sensor could be suspect and the rubber insulator between the manifold and throttle body has been known to fail as well.
Other possibilities are the cam position sensor and crank position sensor buttry Toms ideas first followed by CTS/leaks in airflow to throttle body hose.
Problems with the fusebox generally cause window, wiper, central locking problems with a few other "sillies" thrown in i can't think of just now but none of the ignition/injection systems go through the dashboard fusebox.
All of these diagnostic suggestions assume the rest of the "basics" are right - spark plugs, dizzy cap, rotor arm and so on.
Also the Lambda sensor could be suspect and the rubber insulator between the manifold and throttle body has been known to fail as well.
Other possibilities are the cam position sensor and crank position sensor buttry Toms ideas first followed by CTS/leaks in airflow to throttle body hose.
Problems with the fusebox generally cause window, wiper, central locking problems with a few other "sillies" thrown in i can't think of just now but none of the ignition/injection systems go through the dashboard fusebox.
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Re: Hello. >>> 1993 Rover 820i
Cheers Guys.
Will try them all out. As want to get out on the road with full confidence and not stall on a blind bend as last time out.
Mike
Will try them all out. As want to get out on the road with full confidence and not stall on a blind bend as last time out.
Mike
Mike
Bridport ~ British West Dorset
Rover 820i
MG-ZS
Range Rover P38
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Re: Hello. >>> 1993 Rover 820i
Hi Mike, I'm afraid a Mk1 haynes manual won't be much help for a T series Mk2. Not that the Haynes book of lies for a Mk2 is all that good either....
Follow the link on this thread - viewtopic.php?f=18&t=9417 - and you will be able to download copies of the factory workshop manuals which are much better (although mistakes have been found in these too).
The difficulty with the MEMS management system is that unlike modern ECUs which throw a car into limp mode when a sensor or component fails, it uses a clever redundancy system to compensate for the problem and keep the engine running almost to its full function.
For instance if the crank sensor fails, it uses the cam position sensor (if fitted) for engine speed and crank positon. And vice versa. And it can do this with most of the main engine sensors. Only when 2 or three key components fail at the same time will the engine stop working altogether.
This is great, but its ability to hide faults can make diagnosis very hard. Fitting new components which are prone to failure as a matter of course will be a big help in tracing the source of the fault. So as Dave mentioned, a CTS, Lamda, plugs and other igniton components is always the place to start.
Follow the link on this thread - viewtopic.php?f=18&t=9417 - and you will be able to download copies of the factory workshop manuals which are much better (although mistakes have been found in these too).
The difficulty with the MEMS management system is that unlike modern ECUs which throw a car into limp mode when a sensor or component fails, it uses a clever redundancy system to compensate for the problem and keep the engine running almost to its full function.
For instance if the crank sensor fails, it uses the cam position sensor (if fitted) for engine speed and crank positon. And vice versa. And it can do this with most of the main engine sensors. Only when 2 or three key components fail at the same time will the engine stop working altogether.
This is great, but its ability to hide faults can make diagnosis very hard. Fitting new components which are prone to failure as a matter of course will be a big help in tracing the source of the fault. So as Dave mentioned, a CTS, Lamda, plugs and other igniton components is always the place to start.
Tom.
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Re: Hello. >>> 1993 Rover 820i
Oh, and make sure you disconnect the battery for a few hours while or after fitting new bits to reset the ECU.
Tom.
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Re: Hello. >>> 1993 Rover 820i
There's this as well.scoobyh123 wrote: ↑Fri Jul 14, 2017 8:35 amWelcome aboard Mike!
You've joined a little too late for the "big" show of the year which is the BMC/BL National Spares Day and Rally in Peterborough. Others may say that the PoL (Pride of Longbridge) show is the big one or possibly the one at Gaydon - each to their own is suppose but for me the Peterborough one is the big one.
You'd be very welcome to come along but it's a long way from Bridport and if you're having problems on long journeys probably not the best idea!
These problems you mention, as others have asked, what do you mean by "auto cut out"? Is the car automatic? Does the engine die after running for a while?
If so does it just cut out or is it more of a "cough........splutter...........cough........splutter..............die" scenario?
Does it restart easily immediately or does it take a while?
http://www.roverfest.uk/
Chris
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19 Vauxhall Astra 1.6T SRi Nav Estate
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Previously owned 57 800s 2000-2012
Relapse of 1 in 2021 Now Sold
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Re: Hello. >>> 1993 Rover 820i
I forgot that one Chris (and no doubt others as well) but unless he gets to the bottom of his running/cutting-out problems, that will be too far for him to risk it as well.
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Re: Hello. >>> 1993 Rover 820i
Cheers for the replies Chris/Tom.
Weekend got took up with family visit to Farnham, so will try and get some effort in this week/Weekend.
Many thanks for the link to the manuals. The Haynes Mark 1 Manual was a schoolboy error as I picked it up assuming the 1994 on the cover represented the year not the 'cc'.
Great shout about the V8 Rover Fest.
Mike
Weekend got took up with family visit to Farnham, so will try and get some effort in this week/Weekend.
Many thanks for the link to the manuals. The Haynes Mark 1 Manual was a schoolboy error as I picked it up assuming the 1994 on the cover represented the year not the 'cc'.
Great shout about the V8 Rover Fest.
Mike
Mike
Bridport ~ British West Dorset
Rover 820i
MG-ZS
Range Rover P38
Bridport ~ British West Dorset
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Re: Hello. >>> 1993 Rover 820i
have you tried the Throttle body stepper motor reset?
Ignition on to position 2, press the throttle from 0 - 100% five times within 20s and you should hear the stepper motor going doolally as it relearns where the idle position is.
Does it die under idle conditions only? Especially when dipping the clutch coming to a junction?
New coil too as the T-Series likes a strong spark.
Welcome to the Forum by the way
Ignition on to position 2, press the throttle from 0 - 100% five times within 20s and you should hear the stepper motor going doolally as it relearns where the idle position is.
Does it die under idle conditions only? Especially when dipping the clutch coming to a junction?
New coil too as the T-Series likes a strong spark.
Welcome to the Forum by the way
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