WANTED: infomation

[jago]

In the service manual it talks about making sure you have the AUX gearbox cooling unit if towing over 1000kg

Does anyone have info? or one fitted?

Jago

[jago]

On my last 827 I found the auto box over heated the engine when the nitrous was used. I would put this down to the fact that the clutches are held on with hydraulic pressure and the pump makes heat as a by product.

Do you have the other parts to make it manual?
Flywheel
Bolts
Half shaft
Starter bolts
Clutch peddle and parts?

[traineefarmer]

In the service manual it talks about making sure you have the AUX gearbox cooling unit if towing over 1000kg

Does anyone have info? or one fitted?

Jago

I don't have any experience with the rover (honda) autos, but have done a fair bit of messing around with volvo ones. The reccomendation of fitting an auxilary cooler is quite common but rarely followed outside of 4x4s and serious towing enthusiasts.

It's the torque converter that generates the most heat in an autobox, sometimes to the point of boiling the oil, destroying its lubricating and hydraulic capacity burning out clutch linings.

Most auxilary coolers will be placed in the return line from the existing cooler (I assume the 827 has one), or from a known tapping point. If you can't find a proper 827 unit, you'll find plenty of universal kits on ebay etc often aimed at the 4x4 market.

I wonder if it would be possible to find an uprated torque converter to fit your car as you would an uprated clutch for a tuned manual car? I know such things exist, but how about for an 827?

[jago]

Hi tom, the torque converter for the 827 has friction pads in to lock it out for cruising etc.. I have seen the universal kits but, wanted something oem if it was about as I would have hoped it to have the correct fittings/mounts for the extra cooler etc.

[traineefarmer]

Hi tom, the torque converter for the 827 has friction pads in to lock it out for cruising etc.. I have seen the universal kits but, wanted something oem if it was about as I would have hoped it to have the correct fittings/mounts for the extra cooler etc.

The lock-up clutch wouldn't be operational during hard acceleration, which is when the most heat would be generated.

On the OEM cooler kit, I wonder if some USA breakers would have some from a Sterling or Legend fitment. It may have been offered as standard on hot climate specs. Does anyone else know for sure?

[jago]

rimmers list one:

Kit transmission cooling - Genuine MG Rover
Part No.: UBK10006

[Richard Moss]

No longer available they say. A universal one would would be fine, I'm sure

[vito]

South Lakeland Mini centre always worth a call, but DO call them first as they're notorious for letting you order, then saying out of stock.

http://www.ekmpowershop28.com/ekmps/sho ... 9052-p.asp

[jago]

I did some looking at the car last night, the return line would quite easy to add an extra cooler into, Ebay do list universal cooler kit for about £70-80 so will give it a go once I up the power

[scoobyh123]

I've done quite a bit of research into this recently as i've been thinking of fitting one to mine as well. Lings Honda list one for the early Legend 2.7 (same as the 827) but the kit is about a grand

I've built up some contacts within the Honda fraternity and worked out the oil cooler below is almost exactly the same as the kit Honda offer :

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00O ... ROKL5A1OLE

The standard ATF cooling on the 827 is pretty inadequate having two small heat exchangers built into the end caps of the radiator. These have the same internal thread as the old SD1 ATF heat exchangers and are quite possibly the same units. Given the physical size of the SD1 box/torque converter Vs the physical size of the 827s, the heat has to go somewhere and in my opinion the 827 isn't physically big enough to disperse the heat generated from towing without some sort of upgrade.

All the books, online resources etc will say unless you're serious about towing, don't bother with an auxiliary cooler. Experience has taught me this is a fallacy and for the sake of £30 for a cooler kit, it's cheap insurance!

Also worth changing your ATF as well - old fluid won't cope with the heat from towing. You'll also be pleasantly surprised at the improvement in economy, acceleration, smoothness etc after doing 2 or 3 "part changes". By part changes, i mean remove the drain plug from the gearbox (a 3/8" drive ratchet is perfect) and drain out the old oil. The refill quantity is 3.2L so 10L of new fluid will give you 3 part changes and a little left over for topping up if necessary.

Here is an excellent ATF to use in the PL5 Honda auto box as fitted to the 827 :

http://www.gsfcarparts.com/980aa0471

The website will throw up warnings that this ATF may not be the right one for your car - ignore them as it is fully Honda ATF Z-1 compatible and Z1 is no longer available. The replacement DW-1 is allegedly backwards compatible but it isn't and has fried torque converters in some vehicles.

A little tip - once you've done the part change, remove fuse "S" from the underbonnet fusebox for at least 30 seconds and then replace it. This resets the autobox ECU (and the ABS, climate pack and PGM-Fi ECUs as well) and ensures you will get the best out of your new fluid. The first few gear changes might be a little jerky as a result, this is normal but after the initial "re-learning" the changes should improve.

Another little tip, this time for the GSF website. Register for an account and their newsletters, they will email you various discount codes and very often one of them is a 35% discount. The last two 5L tubs of ATF-U that i've bought were only about £22 delivered - result!

Hope all that is helpful!

[SJG]

It might be beneficial to look at this thread

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=10453

[Matthew]

I had an extra cooler fitted to my 827 it was mounted on the front of the condencer and eliminated the oil ATF from going through the bottom of the radiator. It seemed to work very well as I had no over heating problems towing a caravan.