Hondamatic
- Ray
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Hondamatic
Hi there im looking for Hondamatic 96 atf if anyone has some to sell. Or know where I can get it.
1990 827 Mk1 Vitesse Auto. AR\TWR body kit. Pulsar silver.
1990 827 Mk1 Vitesse Auto. White Diamond.
1990 827 Mk1 Vitesse Auto. White Diamond.
- scoobyh123
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Re: Hondamatic
Ray - have a look at your other thread - Hondamatic 96 aka Z-1 no longer exists but a good Z-1 compatible fluid is Carlube ATF-U - i've put a link on your other thread but most factors can get it.
- Ray
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Re: Hondamatic
Thanks Dave. Nice one.
1990 827 Mk1 Vitesse Auto. AR\TWR body kit. Pulsar silver.
1990 827 Mk1 Vitesse Auto. White Diamond.
1990 827 Mk1 Vitesse Auto. White Diamond.
- Ray
- Regular Visitor
- Posts: 99
- Joined: Thu Aug 01, 2013 1:38 pm
- Location: Merseyside [phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/vendor/twig/twig/lib/Twig/Extension/Core.php on line 1266: count(): Parameter must be an array or an object that implements Countable
Re: Hondamatic
Dave what about this ?
http://vi.raptor.ebaydesc.com/ws/eBayIS ... 4115913549
http://vi.raptor.ebaydesc.com/ws/eBayIS ... 4115913549
1990 827 Mk1 Vitesse Auto. AR\TWR body kit. Pulsar silver.
1990 827 Mk1 Vitesse Auto. White Diamond.
1990 827 Mk1 Vitesse Auto. White Diamond.
- scoobyh123
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Re: Hondamatic
Honest answer Ray is i don't know. The fact it's called Z-1 could simply be an accident, just a manufacturer dreaming up a name for it so to speak. Then again it may be the same ATF as Honda used to supply.
Without seeing the exact specification of it i wouldn't like to chance it and i would think the shipping from Germany would make it prohibitive too.
To give you an example, there is an aftermarket cup holder for my Jeep that screws onto the two screws on the top of the centre armrest/cubby hole (very similar to the 800 in design) and rests on the centre console - made out of plastic, about 6" wide, kind of inverted "L" shape in profile and the shipping from Germany for that is about £14 so on that basis i dread to think what the ATF would cost!
Without seeing the exact specification of it i wouldn't like to chance it and i would think the shipping from Germany would make it prohibitive too.
To give you an example, there is an aftermarket cup holder for my Jeep that screws onto the two screws on the top of the centre armrest/cubby hole (very similar to the 800 in design) and rests on the centre console - made out of plastic, about 6" wide, kind of inverted "L" shape in profile and the shipping from Germany for that is about £14 so on that basis i dread to think what the ATF would cost!
- Ray
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Re: Hondamatic
I'll go with you Dave. Thanks for that. Best to play safe mate
1990 827 Mk1 Vitesse Auto. AR\TWR body kit. Pulsar silver.
1990 827 Mk1 Vitesse Auto. White Diamond.
1990 827 Mk1 Vitesse Auto. White Diamond.
- scoobyh123
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Re: Hondamatic
You're welcome Ray - the ATF-U is tried and tested in at least 4 827s (2 are mine) and in many Hondas (mostly Accord V6 coupés but a few Legends as well) i know of.
If you're changing th ATF, do 2 or 3 "part-changes" - undo the sump drain plug on the box, drain, refit the plug then refill the box with 3.2L of ATF. Run it for 600-1000 miles then do it again. If you feel after the second one that a third would be beneficial then do that the same time/mileage interval later. This is basically a "prolonged flushing change" but gives the fluid a chance to get all the old dirt and fluid out safely, without shocking any of the seals with a huge amount of new (and therefore thicker) fluid.
After the last change, remove fuse "S" from the underbonnet fusebox to reset the EAT ECU (it resets the other ECUs as well) - i normally pull the fuse before draining the ATF and refit after refilling. You'll know if you've forgotten to replace the fuse as the car won't start!
After doing the two or three part changes, i normally do one part change a year to keep the fluid fresh and clean.
If you're changing th ATF, do 2 or 3 "part-changes" - undo the sump drain plug on the box, drain, refit the plug then refill the box with 3.2L of ATF. Run it for 600-1000 miles then do it again. If you feel after the second one that a third would be beneficial then do that the same time/mileage interval later. This is basically a "prolonged flushing change" but gives the fluid a chance to get all the old dirt and fluid out safely, without shocking any of the seals with a huge amount of new (and therefore thicker) fluid.
After the last change, remove fuse "S" from the underbonnet fusebox to reset the EAT ECU (it resets the other ECUs as well) - i normally pull the fuse before draining the ATF and refit after refilling. You'll know if you've forgotten to replace the fuse as the car won't start!
After doing the two or three part changes, i normally do one part change a year to keep the fluid fresh and clean.
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