Ford Mondeo 2.0 Litre Auto.
- CHR15E
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Re: Ford Mondeo 2.0 Litre Auto.
Oh dear, that doesn't sound like a nice place to be.
From what I'd read drilling them out is what most people had done.
It has definitely made my mind up on letting a garage do it if/when mine need doing.
From what I'd read drilling them out is what most people had done.
It has definitely made my mind up on letting a garage do it if/when mine need doing.
Chris
19 Vauxhall Astra 1.6T SRi Nav Estate
08 Vauxhall Astra 2.0T Design Twintop
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19 Vauxhall Astra 1.6T SRi Nav Estate
08 Vauxhall Astra 2.0T Design Twintop
02 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland 4.7 V8 HO
Previously owned 57 800s 2000-2012
Relapse of 1 in 2021 Now Sold
- scoobyh123
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Re: Ford Mondeo 2.0 Litre Auto.
The rivets need to be hard Nick - they hold quite a lot of load. A bit of heat and/or soaking in WD40 or similar usually helps, if you can get a screwdriver between the ball joint and arm to try and pry the rivets out that sometimes works as well.
Good luck with it!
Good luck with it!
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Re: Ford Mondeo 2.0 Litre Auto.
Thanks Dave, the suggestion to soak the rivets is a good one, it slipped my mind. That worked for me on the bushes of a Honda bike. After 2 days they drove out easy. I use a mixture of diesel and brake fluid. Maybe I have got too pessimistic about cracking this problem. Sometimes, one can think too much about things.
Chris, your ball joints may never need doing in your ownership. Some people recommend changing the whole lower arm. To do this, one has to drop the sub-frame on one side, which, on an older car, can throw up new problems, like captive nuts breaking loose and spinning inside a closed section. This is why I chose the garage method to grind through the ball joint and drill out the rivets. No faffing around dropping a sub-frame. I just never took into account that the rivets would be so hard.
Chris, your ball joints may never need doing in your ownership. Some people recommend changing the whole lower arm. To do this, one has to drop the sub-frame on one side, which, on an older car, can throw up new problems, like captive nuts breaking loose and spinning inside a closed section. This is why I chose the garage method to grind through the ball joint and drill out the rivets. No faffing around dropping a sub-frame. I just never took into account that the rivets would be so hard.
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Re: Ford Mondeo 2.0 Litre Auto.
Give acetone and synthetic ATF a try for penetrating fluid Nick - it's amazing stuff! I use ATF-U as i usually have an odd litre or so floating about from doing changes on the beasts and it's a 50/50 mix. Was the only thing that shifted the taper on the ball joints on my Volvo! Works out about £6/L but you need so little of it (less than half what you'd use with WD40 to give a comparison) and i've modified an old WD can so i can fill it and recharge the pressure with my compressor. Needs a good shake when first mixed and a bit of a shake before each use just to be on the safe side but it's powers of penetration are awesome!
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Re: Ford Mondeo 2.0 Litre Auto.
OK Dave, I will try the Acetone/atf mix. I gave the rivets 2 half hour blasts with my blow torch and this seemed to soften them enough to drill them out. Broke 2 drills andI had to go to 11mm size in the end but they are all out now. So I have had success today. I felt quite despondent when I got up this morning but tomorrow, I can put things back together.
While I was working outside, who should come by but the man I bought the car from, driving a C5, (not a Sinclair LOL) He offered to come around tomorrow and help me put things back together, if I needed a hand. Things are starting to look up at last.
While I was working outside, who should come by but the man I bought the car from, driving a C5, (not a Sinclair LOL) He offered to come around tomorrow and help me put things back together, if I needed a hand. Things are starting to look up at last.
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Re: Ford Mondeo 2.0 Litre Auto.
I don't think Citroen thought things through when they named that car although in fairness i'd rather have the Sinclair than the Citroen!
Glad you've had some good progress and a pair of helping hands is coming soon! With luck that retest is looking much more promising!
Glad you've had some good progress and a pair of helping hands is coming soon! With luck that retest is looking much more promising!
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Re: Ford Mondeo 2.0 Litre Auto.
Dave, the Citroen man has 2 C5 estates, 1 petrol and 1 diesel. He put one car into a garage for servicing and while there the battery died. The garage tried to start it using a booster pack. Bad move. This promptly fried every electrical item on the car, window motors, ECU, seats, etc. Apparently on a C5, when using a booster pack, the battery must be isolated from the car to avoid current surges. He cant prove legally that the garage did anything wrong. To replace everything including programming the Siemens made ECU, the total bill was £1700. I would have scrapped the car but he loves his Citroen's. I looked over a C5 last year but concluded that the car would be too complex for me to fix myself. A lucky escape methinks!
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Re: Ford Mondeo 2.0 Litre Auto.
He's obviously a glutton for punishment Nick! Doubly so for having a diseasel version as well as the petrol!
The big trouble these days is cars in general are far too complicated, they have anything up to 11 ECUs for basic functions then even more to control those! I have heard of one vehicle that has 25 ECUs which are each quite powerful computers in their own right. What's wrong with an indicator switch and a flasher unit???
The big trouble these days is cars in general are far too complicated, they have anything up to 11 ECUs for basic functions then even more to control those! I have heard of one vehicle that has 25 ECUs which are each quite powerful computers in their own right. What's wrong with an indicator switch and a flasher unit???
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Re: Ford Mondeo 2.0 Litre Auto.
Managed to complete the work on the car today, ball; joint fitted and the anti roll bar link. The bottom link had a rusty nut that kept turning and there were no flats on the other end for a spanner so had to grind the nut right off. The new link had both flats on one end and a hole for a hexagon key on the nut end. A very sensible piece of design.
I was going to do some cleaning of the car tomorrow but after the ball joint the rivets, and putting everything back together, I feel totally knackered. So tomorrow will be a day of rest. Retest on Monday.
I was going to do some cleaning of the car tomorrow but after the ball joint the rivets, and putting everything back together, I feel totally knackered. So tomorrow will be a day of rest. Retest on Monday.
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Re: Ford Mondeo 2.0 Litre Auto.
Well done Nick! Good move having a beak from it until you feel more ready/able to continue.
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Re: Ford Mondeo 2.0 Litre Auto.
Break - not beak! ^^^^^
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Re: Ford Mondeo 2.0 Litre Auto.
I went to the garage at10am this morning for a retest and was told to come back at 5 pm. So I go back at 5 pm. The tester gets out his trolley jack and takes a look at my work, looks fine, ball joint done, drop link done. We go into the office to do the test certificate and he logs onto the computer. Starts to type away, then stops and goes back to the car. Comes back into the office and tells me that I have replaced the drop link on the wrong side. I replaced it because the boot was torn. Naturally, I assumed this was what he had noticed and mentioned. He must have missed this on the first test. Never thought to check the other drop link.
So now I have one day left to source a new drop link, fit it and then go back for a retest, or its another test fee. I am starting to wish that I had never laid eyes on this car!
So now I have one day left to source a new drop link, fit it and then go back for a retest, or its another test fee. I am starting to wish that I had never laid eyes on this car!
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Re: Ford Mondeo 2.0 Litre Auto.
What did the failure sheet say and which side did you replace?
As an aside, when replacing drop links, ball joints, shocks, springs and so on, it's usually better to replace in axle sets.
Also if the failure certificate says the drop link the other side to that you've replaced, you could "delicately" point out he missed it first time round so how about some latitude on the retest fee if it goes over the time limit? If it says on the failure sheet the side you've done but not the other side, similar applies.
However, he could be pulling a fast one. Many moons ago when i was buying and selling a few cars, one particular customer wanted a Metro. A yellow Metro. A 1 litre yellow Metro. The only one i could find (in the guys budget) needed some welding. I did what i could find and put it in for MoT expecting to get a definitive list of what other work was needed. Sure enough it failed on more welding and a dodgy rear fog light. I did the welding that was listed on the failure sheet, fixed the rear fog and took it back, expecting (as you would) a pass certificate. The tester opened the door, raised the ramp, put his paw in and declared the inner sills rotten on the drivers side.
When i got it home, i stripped the entire interior out, found every rotten panel (there were plenty to be fair) and repaired them. I then took it to a different MoT station where it passed without question. I also heard a nice little tit-bit of information - the tester at the garage where i'd previously taken it had been looking for one for his daughter!
I'll let you draw your own conclusions!
As an aside, when replacing drop links, ball joints, shocks, springs and so on, it's usually better to replace in axle sets.
Also if the failure certificate says the drop link the other side to that you've replaced, you could "delicately" point out he missed it first time round so how about some latitude on the retest fee if it goes over the time limit? If it says on the failure sheet the side you've done but not the other side, similar applies.
However, he could be pulling a fast one. Many moons ago when i was buying and selling a few cars, one particular customer wanted a Metro. A yellow Metro. A 1 litre yellow Metro. The only one i could find (in the guys budget) needed some welding. I did what i could find and put it in for MoT expecting to get a definitive list of what other work was needed. Sure enough it failed on more welding and a dodgy rear fog light. I did the welding that was listed on the failure sheet, fixed the rear fog and took it back, expecting (as you would) a pass certificate. The tester opened the door, raised the ramp, put his paw in and declared the inner sills rotten on the drivers side.
When i got it home, i stripped the entire interior out, found every rotten panel (there were plenty to be fair) and repaired them. I then took it to a different MoT station where it passed without question. I also heard a nice little tit-bit of information - the tester at the garage where i'd previously taken it had been looking for one for his daughter!
I'll let you draw your own conclusions!
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Re: Ford Mondeo 2.0 Litre Auto.
Today, I got up early and changed the nearside drop link. Like the offside, the lower nut would not budge with a well fitting ring spanner. Tried heating it with a blow lamp but was still no go. So I ground the nut off, as I should have done in the first place. Took the car for a retest and it was a pass. Thank goodness for that. I bought my car to enjoy it, not spend my time repairing it.
Next job is to change the engine oil and filter and give it a longish run to really test out the gearbox. Like most modern cars, the gearbox is linked to the ecu and engine temperature and other parameters. So far everything seems too be working as it should.
Next job is to change the engine oil and filter and give it a longish run to really test out the gearbox. Like most modern cars, the gearbox is linked to the ecu and engine temperature and other parameters. So far everything seems too be working as it should.
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Re: Ford Mondeo 2.0 Litre Auto.
All good news Nick and congrats on the MoT!
Had my insurance renewal for the Sterling today which means there is an MoT looming on that too - i suspect it will need a new front pipe, the dog food tins and Jubilee clips have done well for the past 9 years though!
Had my insurance renewal for the Sterling today which means there is an MoT looming on that too - i suspect it will need a new front pipe, the dog food tins and Jubilee clips have done well for the past 9 years though!
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