Thunderbird2 & Turbo Coupes

[scotty2]

Update:
TB2 clutch hydraulics now repaired. .Back in service.

TGM: I have removed the old lpg unit, but unable to progress due to wiring issues. I need some plugs with some wire tails to allow me to splice into the existing loom. It will be interesting to see if there is a change in performance as the original system was indistinguishable between petrol and gas. I might have to buy an uprated reducer if it does not perform.

Doing some research, it would appear to be the rubber diaphragm that had failed giving an erratic idle and rich running.

Need a plug for the solenoid as they are not interchangeable.



Dusan, Can you remember what size the copper feed pipe to the unit is? I need to reduce it to fit the new unit.




I'll wait until MOT is passed before deciding on an uprated reducer...

[scoobyh123]

Swap the solenoids over Scott, easy! Just a clip on the end or sometimes a nut - it's a nut on yours, clearly visible in the pic.

Don't go changing the copper tubing, just buy an adaptor from Tinley, they're only a couple of quid, looks like M10 to M8 you need but it's difficult to tell from the pics so get your measuring stick out!

[scotty2]

I did look at that but the diameter of the "pin" of the solenoid is different.

ETA: Gas pipe adaptor and plug with wire ordered from Tinley Tech. I'll just cut and solder the temp sensor wires.

[scoobyh123]

I did look at that but the diameter of the "pin" of the solenoid is different.

ETA: Gas pipe adaptor and plug with wire ordered from Tinley Tech. I'll just cut and solder the temp sensor wires.

That's unusual, normally they're a standard size. In that case, this might be another option :

https://tinleytech.co.uk/shop/lpg-parts ... td-alaska/

Fairly sure that is the right one for the reducer you have, i have the same one to fit on my Sterling but without digging it out and checking the part number, i am not sure i've remembered it correctly.

Also i believe Tinley sell the connectors for the reducer you've bought, they look like Supaseal type plugs from your pic which should give you a starting point finding a plug for it.

[scotty2]

Tinley Tech supplied a plug and tail for the solenoid and an M12 to M10 adapter for a few quid each. I made up a new bracket and installed the new unit yesterday afternoon. It fired up and eventually switched to gas. Tested joints with soapy water and nipped up the LP supply to the injectors. Seems to be running OK. Dropped off for retest after the rear discs and ball joint are done.

[scoobyh123]

Tinley Tech supplied a plug and tail for the solenoid and an M12 to M10 adapter for a few quid each. I made up a new bracket and installed the new unit yesterday afternoon. It fired up and eventually switched to gas. Tested joints with soapy water and nipped up the LP supply to the injectors. Seems to be running OK. Dropped off for retest after the rear discs and ball joint are done.

That's good news Scott, fingers crossed for the retest!

By the way, i know you've previously seen this thread and indicated (at least) a passing interest but it seems like it could be a viable car for you, either as a source of spares or indeed a mini-resto project :

viewtopic.php?p=158292&sid=2f7048bbede9 ... 54#p158292

I mentioned to the OP of the thread you'd expressed a bit of interest in the past but you ight be away at work so not to do anything hasty, seems he's after £300 and will chuck in the sills as well and a couple of other bits and pieces he has.

[scotty2]

I am working away this week (Cheshire, not offshore - much easier when the wellheads are on land!) and off to Germany (Holiday) for two weeks after that. I do have space, so I'll see if I can get a price for transport. Can't see it go to waste for that price...

[scoobyh123]

Had a feeling you'd be interested in it Scott!

[scotty2]

Other Coupe now in my unit.
I blame you Dave !

ETA. AS this Coupe is the same colour as my other one, I'll see how long it takes the other half to notice I have bought yet another car... I haven't told her yet...

[scoobyh123]

She'll think you've just moved it Scott! Thought i might get the blame somehow!

[scotty2]

Update on TGM. Now MOT'd and back in service.
New rear discs, pads, a ball joint, new LPG Reducer, and a new rear tyre.
Had a bit of difficulty with the emissions even on LPG. Think it might be a Lambda sensor issue as the voltage on the King diagnostic software is showing a voltage of about 2.2 V. I'm sure it should be about 0.9, but not sure if different for LPG.

[scoobyh123]

Update on TGM. Now MOT'd and back in service.
New rear discs, pads, a ball joint, new LPG Reducer, and a new rear tyre.
Had a bit of difficulty with the emissions even on LPG. Think it might be a Lambda sensor issue as the voltage on the King diagnostic software is showing a voltage of about 2.2 V. I'm sure it should be about 0.9, but not sure if different for LPG.

Those figures are seriously wrong Scott!

First, select the correct type of O2/Lambda sensor in the software, it should be 0-1V. You've obviously seected one of the 0-5V variants. They type of Lambda sensor you have in the TGM won't ever give an output above 1V so there's something wrong somewhere, most likely in the software selection of the sensor type.

Second, once the correct sensor type is selected, it shouldn't be at 0.9V either unless it's running seriously rich!

Making a guess here, you have the wrong sensor type selected and it's transposed/calculated the value to be 2.2V and displayed that. Divide by 5 to get it back to a 1V scale and it gives 0.44V which is near enough stoichiometric but should oscillate steadily between near 0.0V and 0.9V when idling. Put it on petrol mode and monitor the Lambda output voltage to see what i mean. If it isn't doing this then the Lambda sensor is faulty and is likely reading 0.0- 0.2V max but assuming it's ok, switch back to gas and see what it does.
Also make sure the vacuum hose from inlet manifold to reducer is intact, secure and fitted on the correct stub on the reducer.

If it suddenly goes high and stays there, did you set the presure on the reducer when you fitted it? If not, use an Allen key in the pressure adjuster and reduce the pressure at idle to get it to oscillate the Lambda voltage as described - mid-point should be about 0.45V with it swinging equal ish amounts above and below thythmically.

Assuming the Lambda sensor is faulty, that could have been the cause of the rich running all along and you now have a spare reducer. Worth investing in a rebuild kit for it and doing it so it's a known serviceable spare.

Glad to hear you've got an MoT on it but it still sounds wrong. Would be handy if Dusan came along and could tell you the pressure of the gas at idle to give you a starting point to get it set up again.

[scotty2]

I'll have a check when I get a chance. The gas pressure is also shown on the software as is the MAP. I'll try a screen shot when I'm next connected.

Oh, ETA I have ordered a new lambda just in case as there was NOS for a Rover 800 for £15 !

[scoobyh123]

I'll have a check when I get a chance. The gas pressure is also shown on the software as is the MAP. I'll try a screen shot when I'm next connected.

Oh, ETA I have ordered a new lambda just in case as there was NOS for a Rover 800 for £15 !

Do you remember what the gas pressure was showing at idle and if it increased if you blipped the throttle? Should settle back as vacuum is restored after.

Are you sure it's the right Lambda sensor? There were three fitted to 800s - the one as used on the 827 in pairs, the one on the 820 and the third type used on one bank of the KV6 - the other bank of the KV6 used the same as the T-series.

[scotty2]

It said it was compatible with 820 so it should be the right one. We shall see...