My experience of replacing fuel filler neck

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Re: My experience of replacing fuel filler neck

Post by Richard Moss » Sat Aug 10, 2013 10:55 am

scoobyh123 wrote:There is another solution to the filler neck problem and that's to use a kit-car filler from Europa Spares. Pricey at about £50 for just the filler cap/neck assembly then you need a length of 2" fuel hose too (£silly per metre) and something to make the small vapour recovery pipes from although copper brake pipe could easily be used.
I bought some universal filler hose from Car Builder Solutions to replace the (failed) rubber one on my SAAB 900 - good value and it seems to have done the job nicely.
http://www.cbsonline.co.uk/

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Re: My experience of replacing fuel filler neck

Post by scoobyh123 » Sat Aug 10, 2013 1:58 pm

That's another option - i suggested Europa as i couldn't find any suitable fillers on the cbs website when i looked some time back.

Also seen your thread about how you found the fuel filler was split - i would have cried!!!
Cheers,
Dave


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Re: My experience of replacing fuel filler neck

Post by 3pinplug » Wed Aug 14, 2013 5:45 am

Hi Dave,

You mention about welding them up and the problems, agree fully with you on that as unless your a brilliant welder (i'm not) your forever chasing pinholes! Luckily as I mentioned I found a good donor in a scrappy which should see the car out. I've no idea on the colour of the green on the vehicle i'll have a look , the kids fondly refer to it as "snot green" (lovely kids) , will take some pics and post.

Funnily enough just had my expansion bottle go for a third time so last night I installed a Volvo one but the light beat me, its in but the brackets are proving a pain to fabricate and I ran out of light, so have lashed it on for today then having another go tonight. Have you any pics of your brackets / tank you could post I could have a look at?
Also the top little pipe n the Volvo tank is no longer submerged like it was on the rover tank - is yours the same? I got the expansion tank that has a sensor in it, hope that doesn't mean I got the wrong one and I have fitted my original rover cap?
Regards
Mark

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Re: My experience of replacing fuel filler neck

Post by scoobyh123 » Wed Aug 14, 2013 6:53 am

Hi Mark,

my original thread, Can anybody smell petrol? explains all the ins and outs of the problems i had with quite a few photos. I don't consider myself an ace welder, on a good day i'd say proficient, on a bad day it's look out pigeons! :wink: :lol:

I did however get rid of the pinholes originally on the first weld by grinding then re-welding, mainly because that way it slowly but surely took the bad metal away. Obviously missed some for it to go porous again though.

If it's any help identifying whether yours is Charleston Green, here's a pic of a coupe in that colour :

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The car in question belongs to Gaz (Vito) and besides being absolutely stunning inside and out (low mileage too!) conviced me i should get the coupe i've had my eye on for a few weeks - was just waiting for some funds to land which i was owed. Be nice to see some pics of your car regardless and if it's not Charleston Green, i'm sure we can come up with a better name than Snot Green!!!

Err, my Volvo tank has been "lashed in for today" for several years now! :oops: Kep threatening to make some brackets and it never really happened! Mine is the "torpedo" tank, about 4" round and about 8 long and i'm using the Volvo cap. The intention was to check everything worked with the Volvo cap then fit the Rover cap in case anything was weak or the Rover cap jammed or similar. Well i've checked, double checked and checked for the umpteenth time and still not swapped it as the mantra now is "if it ain't broke, don't fix it!".
You could use the switch to provide a low-level coolant warning by wiring an LED and a resistor (or even buying a 12V LED warning lamp including mounting etc) to an ignition-switched feed and an earth for the level switch so when the level dropped, the switch was made and brought the LED on. If you want/need a diagram/values of the components, just let me know. If not, leave the switch connector as it is and check the level manually. No hard and fast rule whether you need the switch or not, the beauty of a mod like this is it's all down to personal preference and as such can be tailored to suit the individual.

I had been hoping to get a nice long list of people who wanted an aluminium fuel filler neck and expansion tank so i could approach a fabrication company to make a short batch run of the 2 items but nobody seems to be interested in saying a definite "yes" except maybe 2 people. As such, i'm considering buying some aluminium or brass sheet and making an expansion tank and for the fuel filler, using this fuel filler assembly and some 2" fuel hose with something to provide the breather then simply using copper brake pipe or even just rubber fuel hose to make the vapour separator loops.
Cheers,
Dave


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'88 Volvo 760 V6 Estate
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Re: My experience of replacing fuel filler neck

Post by 3pinplug » Wed Aug 14, 2013 7:23 pm

Yes that's the colour, handy to know its Charleston green, thanks for confirming that.

I have just finished making a bracket and the Volvo expansion tank is now in and all up and running. I will take some pics when I can and post them, made a bracket, its not not pretty but it works!!!! and have to say the Volvo tank doesn't look out of place in there at all , well apart from the sticker on the top saying "Volvo" (oops!) but I am going to leave that on!

That fuel neck you have found looks very promising and not badly priced either, I am sure that theres a donor vehicle out there with the same bit on as that (would need cutting down) but just needs someone to stumble upon it. Unfortunately my wife decided to throw all my old bits away but if a member took a neck to a local "off the shelf breakers" I am sure they could match up the neck / breather with something and we'd be a lot further towards getting this resolved with an exhaustable supply.Those 4 fingers definitely need making separately, its the key to finding a replacement. So next time anyone with a filler neck is in an "off the shelf breakers" please take it along and see if they have something and get a post on here to help out all those who are struggling. Would still have to make the 4 small pipes but a flare kit is only about £11 off ebay and copper brake pipe is dirt cheap.

Mark

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Re: My experience of replacing fuel filler neck

Post by scoobyh123 » Wed Aug 14, 2013 10:32 pm

You're welcome - i only found out the colour existed, its name and what it looked like at the show on sunday 4th - thought i'd seen most Rover colours but not that one! Besides being responsible for giving you the name of the colour, Gaz's coupe was also responsible for finalising my decision to go after the gold coupe i've just got.

I've always thought the Volvo tank looks "made for it" as well, even without a bracket! :oops: Even with the "Volvo" label (reminds me where i can find a spare if needs be! :wink: :lol: ) it doesn't look "wrong". Given the fact it does the job so well i'm halfway tempted to find one that fits a bit more snugly than mine then get one of the aftermarket (unbranded) replacement Volvo tanks, make a bracket this time and then fit and forget it. May do the same for the coupe as preventative maintenance too.

The idea of taking a dead fuel filler to an off the shelf breakers on the face of it is good. However, many moons ago when i ran a Cortina 2.0 Ghia with power steering, electric windows, central locking, alarm/immobiliser etc i had some trouble doing that. I needed a new window reg for my drivers side door. The original Granada Mk2 unit had given up the ghost and as the Granada window travel was about 3/8" shorter than the Cortina Mk5, i decided to try and find an electric regulator from something like a Sierra or similar to do the job instead. The guy was so intent that it was a Cortina, he didn't grasp the fact that i was looking for a Sierra unit or maybe something else to do the job! After half an hour of searching, he came back and told me he couldn't find any Cortina electric window regs! Wow, what a surprise!! Not!!! They were never fitted with them in this country, not sure about other markets. He also said my sample unit was very strange as none of the holes lined up with the Cortina mounting points - again, no surprise being a Mk2 Granada unit!

Not saying they're all that bad but it was a struggle! Ended up getting a Mk2 Granada unit from a local "self-serve" scrappy, just to get it going again!

On either Europa or car builder solutions (maybe both), they also do "Y" shape reducing plastic petrol pipe connectors and rubber hoses to suit. My line of thought is the vapour separator pipes could easily be made that way as well which then only leaves the "thick" breather (about 10mm dia) to sort out. This could probably be done with a coolant hose sensor adaptor and a suitable sized elbow to screw into it to give the breather.

There's only one "off the shelf" breakers round my neck of the woods as far as i know and i probably wouldn't go there unless i was desperate because A) it's too far and B) it's too expensive! I've known them charge more for a used item than i had bought the same item new from a factors earlier in the week - enough said!!!
Cheers,
Dave


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'88 Volvo 760 V6 Estate
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Re: My experience of replacing fuel filler neck

Post by 3pinplug » Thu Aug 15, 2013 5:52 am

Hi all

Just a couple of pics of the Volvo tank fitted and the bracket I used, only thing I may do in the near future is make the bracket go a bit deeper so the tank sits a little lower down in the engine bay and the bracket looks a bit better but time was tight and it works fine. Have to say really pleased with how its gone in, sat in a traffic jam already and temp needle didn't move one bit!

Apart from the Volvo sticker on the top wouldn't know it wasn't there already! and best bit is it was only £10 from my local scrappy, I was going to be on my 4th rover expansion tank so if this does work what an easy solution! I did read up that the green Volvo cap that came with the tank was a higher pressure so I am running with my original rover item.

Mark


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Re: My experience of replacing fuel filler neck

Post by scoobyh123 » Thu Aug 15, 2013 6:24 am

That's the tank i want!!! What model Volvo did that come from?

This is the one i have :

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I know i said it was a "torpedo" shape but my mistake :oops: , that's the one actually on my 740!

The one you have seems to sit more "naturally" than mine and could be dropped a little so it sits more snugly. Don't drop it too far though as you run the risk of air locks.
Cheers,
Dave


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Re: My experience of replacing fuel filler neck

Post by 3pinplug » Fri Aug 16, 2013 6:55 pm

Hi Dave

The tank came from a Volvo 750 or 850, I printed off a pic of the tank and then wandered round scrappy checking all the Volvos until I matched the pic! Most were like yours or a round shape but got one in the end. Thanks for the heads up on the air locks will definitely bear that in mind. Will be doing about an 800 mile round trip over the next week so will report back on my "road test" of the tank!
Regards
Mark

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Re: My experience of replacing fuel filler neck

Post by scoobyh123 » Fri Aug 16, 2013 8:24 pm

Hi Mark,

ah, i see! Do you think you could identify it from this "rogues gallery" of Volvo expansion tanks?

Besides the rectangular one already in my Sterling saloon, i have the round shaped one strangely enough in my Volvo 740 (Dogmobile) but will be looking to replace the one in my saloon with the square one like yours and also replacing the standard tank in my coupe with a square one too. Although the Rover tank is fine in it at the moment, i don't want to risk it going so would rather repalce sooner rather than later!

Good luck with your "800 mile test run", sure it'll be fine though!. Got loads of faith in the Volvo tanks, they seem to outlast everything else!
Cheers,
Dave


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Re: My experience of replacing fuel filler neck

Post by vito » Fri Aug 16, 2013 8:57 pm

Mark, is there a Volvo part number on that sticker, could be useful information to have on record on the thread.
Gaz (or Gary if we're being formal)

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Re: My experience of replacing fuel filler neck

Post by 3pinplug » Sat Aug 17, 2013 3:12 am

Hi

I will check the top of the tank and post the part number if one on there , if not i have since seen them on ebay going for £23 brand new so will get a part number from somewhere and post it up.

Regards

Mark

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Re: My experience of replacing fuel filler neck

Post by scoobyh123 » Sat Aug 17, 2013 5:47 am

Are none of the tanks in my link the correct one Mark? The part numbers are on there as well.
Cheers,
Dave


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Re: My experience of replacing fuel filler neck

Post by 3pinplug » Tue Aug 27, 2013 5:35 am

Hi Dave
Its the second one down from the top :-

Part no. 9141095 850, S/V/C70 '94 to 98', Genuine Expansion Tank

Sorry for late reply been away making most of bank holiday weekend, just covered 1050 miles in the "Rolvo" with the new expansion tank in and performed well. I did however experience an air lock yet again, had it on original rover expansion tank so not related to the expansion tank so it now time to backflush heater matrix as only did radiator recently.
Regards
Mark

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Re: My experience of replacing fuel filler neck

Post by scoobyh123 » Tue Aug 27, 2013 8:28 am

Don't blame you Mark!
Did you have any problems fitting that tank such as different size hoses, need to extend hoses or anything?
It looks an easier tank to fabricate a bracket for than the one i've used - half the reason i've not made a bracket for mine is i've been hoping to find a bracket in a scrapyard or find the one like you have, complete with bracket etc.

If you've got rid of the airlock, i think unless you have any other problems it would pay to leave it alone - if it ain't broke don't fix it!
If you do have to flush the heater matrix it would be better to reverse flush the whole system.
Get some flushing agent such as Radflush or Comma Xstream Rad Clean (i used this in my Volvo and it shifted an immense amount of sh!t!) and add it to the cooling system as per the instructions on the can/bottle.
Normally it says run the car for an hour/day/week or whatever, with the heater controls set to "HOT". I left mine in considerably longer which was a bit risky as some of these products can attack the solder in the rad and/or heater matrix but mine was in dire need of flushing so was a calculated risk. The way i saw it, i needed to replace the heater matrix due to poor flow so leaving a flushing agent in for extra time was "kill or cure" - as it happened, gladly it was cure!
Then drain the coolant system, remove the thermostat and the highest rad hose you can find. Now get your garden hose (still with the heater set to "HOT") and feed it into the system so it goes against the normal direction of flow. For example, put the hose into the top hose so it flows towards the thermostat housing and then watch the filth flow out of the stub on the radiator! If you feel adventurous, disconnect the heater matrix hoses one at a time and use that as your flushing point to insert the garden hose.
When you're all done, i found it was helpful to flush/reverse flush/flush the rad and heater matrix again on their own by disconnecting the hoses from them.
Refit all hoses, the thermostat with a new gasket if necessary and fill with a 50/50 mix of anti-freeze and water. Don't make the mistake i made (a long time ago!) of filling the anti-freeze then adding the water, it takes ages to mix properly within the engine and the concentrated anti-freeze caused problems until it mixed properly (leaks etc) by which time it had all leaked away anyway!
Run it up to temperature with the expansion tank cap on loosely (this helps to eliminate airlocks) but keep an eye on it in case it starts overflowing. Once up to temperature, leave to cool (preferably over night), top up and fit the cap properly.
Keep an eye on the level for the next few days in case some leaks have found their way into the system e.g. a Jubilee clip giving up the ghost (might pay to have some spare new Jubilee clips when you do the job, just in case) or maybe one you've forgotten to tighten fully (we've all done it! :oops: ).

This is a procedure i've developed and followed over the years and seems to work well with almost any car i've had, giving a first try-final fix result each time. The only car in question was my old 420 GSi but the water pump went months after doing the head gasket and strangely didn't leak, just sucked air into the system! Never before (or since!) known of that and sadly because it kept the coolant at the top of the engine (ie round the sensors) while building up a monumental air lock, the bottom end seriously overheated just before the top did, by which time it was too late and the engine was FUBAR!

Hope you find that helpful if/when you decide to flush the system again. Apologies if it's a bit too detailed, i've written it so that someone else viewing the post can use the procedure even if they're fairly new to the mechanical side of things.
Cheers,
Dave


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'88 Volvo 760 V6 Estate
All auto :D
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