abs light problem diagnostic not working

[Thomas J]

Anyone advise please?
I have tried the abs fault code check. I am getting no luck. The car isn't flashing just staying constant.

I thought it might have been me but my dad has had no luck either.
Is there anyone who has had the same issue? Thanks Thomas

[deano]

it`ll be a sensor, usually the nearside front is the most troublesome.
not too hard to replace, but they can be expensive too buy .

[tonewheeldude]

The ECU keeps a record of the fault code. You have to remove the bridge between the yellow/green wire & black wire on the diagnostic socket behind the panel under the steering column (with ignition off). Then with the ignition on,the light will then show a series of flashes following a start code (normal) of one flash, followed by two more flashes then a 3 second gap before the actual fault code. For example after the 1-2 start code, if its the front left hand wheel sensor at fault the light will flash three times, then pause for 1 second and then flash 9 times. if more than one fault is recorded there is a 3 second pause and then the next code starts. Once rectified your supposed to clear the fault (turn on ignition - wait for lamp to go out, turn on ignition - and repeat...20 times!)

[deano]

sometimes there is no bridge, they wasn't on my 1996 coupe .
I had to get a fella at the garage to plug his machine into the socket beside the stereo to indicate the problem.

[Thomas J]

Thanks I have done the bridging test but the light does not flash at all. I thought I was doing something wrong but my dad did it and he couldn't get it to do it either.

I have also checked both front sensors with a multimeter and both are reading in the right perametres.

Where's the port by the stereo? We have a diagnostic tool hopefully will show the problem thanks again Thomas

[scoobyh123]

Does this mean the ABS light now works Thomas? If your link doesn't work on the socket that also feeds the switch on the brake pedal, does your clock and/or interior light work? It's all too easy to pop the fuse for that while making the diagnostic link in the socket. Also have you connected to the correct half of the socket?

If you've exhausted those silly things, try pulling Fuse "S" from the underbonnet fusebox for a minute or two to clear any fault codes present from re-starting the ABS unit after fixing the earth "fault" that it seemed you had on the other thread. Replace it, and take it for a drive. If the ABS light doesn't go out within a few seconds of switching on the ignition before you've gone anywhere it indicates there is a definite problem that may or may not be sensors. If it only comes back on when you get to 6-10mph then it's almost certainly sensors. Here is a "cost-effective" solution for the front sensors :

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/371033272993? ... EBIDX%3AIT

They're not strictly speaking for the 800 and if memory serves, if you need an O/S sensor, you need to buy a N/S one of those - if you give them a call at Best of British they can confirm this. Alternatively ring them up and ask what they will do for you buying a pair over the phone without going through ebay - they do do deals!!!!!

You'll have fun getting the old one out - i had to use a die-grinder then polished it to a mirror finish with it slightly over-size but not so over-size that the "O" ring didn't make contact. I packed Vaseline round the sensor to help prevent further corrosion which is really what kills the sensors in the first place. The aluminium alloy corrodes and grows white, flaky crystals of aluminium oxide that eventually crush the sensor.

Of course, it could be that if it hasn't had an earth for a while that the modulator pump has gone and it can't initialise - this will show up as the ABS light coming on with the ignition and staying on.

Obviously there could be other faults but personally i would check the above first as those are the most likely causes in my experience. It may also be a wise move to clean the ends of the sensors (they accumulate dirt and metal particles, grease etc) and the tone ring to make sure there are definite clean "steps" in it - this will all help.

Good luck with it!

[Thomas J]

Thanks Dave I will take a look. Earth fault? Not me i dont think sorry

[Thomas J]

Thanks again Dave, I cannot take the car out as its not MOTd as of yet. I cannot find fuse s under the bonnet.
As said before the light just doesnt go out. I have checked and the interior lights up perfectly.

If I cannot get the light off after I have cleaned everything I might just put it in for an MOT and then they can check it out.

Thanks again I really do appreciate everybody's help.
Thomas

[deano]

They wont check it out they will just fail it.
Mine used to go out after a couple of miles driving but only after you turn the car off and on again.
Then it would stay off all day but come back on the next morning.

The dianostic socket is on the right hand side of the stereo consul .
Behind the little triangle carpet trim

[deano]

Think Dave might be getting you mixed up with the other fella who had NO Abs at all

[tonewheeldude]

sorry - i misread the original post completely - i think actually i read another post and then came back to this one.

[Thomas J]

sorry - i misread the original post completely - i think actually i read another post and then came back to this one.

Thanks no worries, Any post is a good post in my eyes.

Any help is greatly appreciated by me so carry on good sir

[scoobyh123]

Thanks Dave I will take a look. Earth fault? Not me i dont think sorry

Sorry Thomas, i've obviously mixed you up with someone else who had no ABS light at all - thinking about it his car was in Spain and was eaten by rats so he had to do major repairs to the wiring amongst other things.

Either way, you can still use the ideas i've suggested and also what Darren posted although you're meant to link two wires, i'll find the procedure later and try to post it up so it shows it. Since my PC "upgraded" to Windows 10 i haven't been able to copy from pdf to "Paint" to make a JPEG image to upload but there's more than one way of scalping a moggy!

Fuse "S" is in the underbonnet fusebox which lives behind the battery, unclip the lid and there should be some heiroglyphics on it to point you to fuse "S". Alternatively you could disconnect the battery earth for a couple of minutes but then you'll need things like the stereo code etc.

They wont check it out they will just fail it.
Mine used to go out after a couple of miles driving but only after you turn the car off and on again.
Then it would stay off all day but come back on the next morning.

The dianostic socket is on the right hand side of the stereo consul .
Behind the little triangle carpet trim

Spot on Dean and yes i was mixing him with some one else! The other thing to remember is most garages these days know diddly-squat about the 800 (not many of them knew anything about it even when it was a lot newer!) and they can do more harm than good by misguided fiddling. This particularly applies to MoT stations who fix just enough to get a pass.

[Thomas J]

They wont check it out they will just fail it.
Mine used to go out after a couple of miles driving but only after you turn the car off and on again.
Then it would stay off all day but come back on the next morning.

The dianostic socket is on the right hand side of the stereo consul .
Behind the little triangle carpet trim

Oh right thanks for letting me know saves an mot fee.
I appreciate your helps thanks Thomas

[scoobyh123]

Had a dig through and managed to find a few bits that might help :







Hopefully that will get you nearer the problem!