Mark's 1991H MK1 820i Auto F/B in Nightfire RESTORED NOV2010
- mjc9967
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ABS Light
Well things couldnt be too perfect for too long could they?
The ABS light has decided to come on from time to time. Once on it stays on until ignition off, then comes on again when it next feels like it.
Have tested ABS operation (lucky we've been having the snow and ice) - it works when light extinguished, does not work when light illuminated, as you might expect.
Apparently this version of ABS does not have fault memory or diagnostic capability. So, fault info is not stored anywhere, and even if light is on when car is looked at there is no way to ask what it is saying. There is no diagnostic plug for a box of tricks to provide a fault code, nor apparently can the ABS light be made to flash a sequence code by touching any wires together (something I had heard might be the case).
Problem is, it seems likely the light is being triggered by a very short momentary condition (and then once on it stays on until power down). Im being told the only thing to do is spend time examining every component, but then whatever the fault is probably wont occur exactly when that inspection is taking place.
Anyone out there know any more than this about diagnostics/fault finding for this? It would be really helpful to discover a way to just get a fault code out of the system somehow.
Thanks in advance
The ABS light has decided to come on from time to time. Once on it stays on until ignition off, then comes on again when it next feels like it.
Have tested ABS operation (lucky we've been having the snow and ice) - it works when light extinguished, does not work when light illuminated, as you might expect.
Apparently this version of ABS does not have fault memory or diagnostic capability. So, fault info is not stored anywhere, and even if light is on when car is looked at there is no way to ask what it is saying. There is no diagnostic plug for a box of tricks to provide a fault code, nor apparently can the ABS light be made to flash a sequence code by touching any wires together (something I had heard might be the case).
Problem is, it seems likely the light is being triggered by a very short momentary condition (and then once on it stays on until power down). Im being told the only thing to do is spend time examining every component, but then whatever the fault is probably wont occur exactly when that inspection is taking place.
Anyone out there know any more than this about diagnostics/fault finding for this? It would be really helpful to discover a way to just get a fault code out of the system somehow.
Thanks in advance
Mark
91H 820i Auto F/B Nordic Blue 32k
91H 820i Auto F/B Nightfire 65k
99V 825 Sterling Auto 4dr BRG 77k
91H 820i Auto F/B Nordic Blue 32k
91H 820i Auto F/B Nightfire 65k
99V 825 Sterling Auto 4dr BRG 77k
- Richard Moss
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It's probably a faulty/dirty front wheel sensor. Mine sometimes throws up a warning light when the front left wheel goes through a deep puddle. After a restart it's always OK.
Out in the desert with a 1998 Grand Cherokee V8, 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4L and a 1997 Chevy Tahoe V8. Back home: 1969 MGC GT
- Richard Moss
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There is a "Fast Check" box available for the ABS ECU but I don't have one and I don't know anyone who does. The usual method is to check the resistance of each sensor with a multimeter - typical looking for 1200-1600 Ohms.
ABS sensor cleaning is usually a case of unbolt the sensor from the hub (2 x 10mm bolts which will no doubt be tight) and clean it off with ta wire brush.. it's worth also cleaning the reluctor ring on the CV joint at the same time.
ABS sensor cleaning is usually a case of unbolt the sensor from the hub (2 x 10mm bolts which will no doubt be tight) and clean it off with ta wire brush.. it's worth also cleaning the reluctor ring on the CV joint at the same time.
Out in the desert with a 1998 Grand Cherokee V8, 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4L and a 1997 Chevy Tahoe V8. Back home: 1969 MGC GT
- Richard Moss
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I think that mk1 and mk2 ABS sensors are the same - if so, they're available new from specialists like Rimmers and Best of British Rover - last time I looked they were £80.
Out in the desert with a 1998 Grand Cherokee V8, 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4L and a 1997 Chevy Tahoe V8. Back home: 1969 MGC GT
- mjc9967
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daylight pic
Hi all just got the bucket and sponges out and thought I'd take advantage of some daylight for once! Bloody batteries ran out in cam so only one new shot of the MK1 at the mo...(doh!)
Mark
91H 820i Auto F/B Nordic Blue 32k
91H 820i Auto F/B Nightfire 65k
99V 825 Sterling Auto 4dr BRG 77k
91H 820i Auto F/B Nordic Blue 32k
91H 820i Auto F/B Nightfire 65k
99V 825 Sterling Auto 4dr BRG 77k
- Richard Moss
- Site Owner
- Posts: 13630
- Joined: Fri Aug 29, 2008 10:48 pm
- Location: Al Ain, Abu Dhabi
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- mjc9967
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More daylight pics and paintwork discussion
Went to my sister's this weekend and couldnt resist getting the camera out on her nice driveway with beautiful manicured evergreens around!
Been a week since it was washed (see post on 16Feb above) and I feel these pics mask a few imperfections but also distort the colour - looks a bit flame red for my liking!
I think its a combination of lighting/cloud cover on the day and camera quality, but mainly the paintwork condition. The previous post shows the car wet after washing, and thats the look I want to achieve full time, more of which later.
This last pic shows the tattiness of the "ROVER" badge, the "820i" one is the same. Cant seem to find new ones so far - hope I can get them restored at some point.
Here are a couple of (non exhaustive) imperfection close ups:
First, a nice long scratch along the lower NSR door. You can also see a couple of small rust spots waiting to burst out near the bottom of the wheel arch. The rest is dirt and road debris.
Second, drivers door looks like it stood beside an enthustiastic road gritter for some time! These spots are through the top coat, think it needs repainting. Also, drivers door handle been replaced with non matching colour, but again I think the camera did some of its own colour matching, reducing the effect.
About the paintwork generally, my previous experience only extends to washing with carplan shampoo and polishing with AutoGlym car polish, but I gather there's a whole other world of "colour restoration" and "car detailing" out there. I think I need to take a peek into this parallel realm if the car is to be properly presented! I want the real showroom look here.
It has plenty of micro scratches and swirls, and running your finger along any of it soon teaches you how a badger's arse must feel
The plan brewing involves clay bar and lube, meguiares paint cleaner, meguiares polish, and meguiares gold wax. Also on the shopping list are a decent variable speed polishing machine and a healthy supply of bonnets and microfibre cloths. Oh, and a good couple of full days in good weather and a nice environment (like the driveway in the pics).
Hopefully then the majority of the car will be really top notch, and painting can be minimized to a couple of small really bad bits. I think properly restored paintwork should also help colour matching and finishing too if painting does have to take place?
Probably be a few months before I can justify the money on some of this stuff (everything I want to use stacks up to over 100 quid!) and also get the weather, so I guess I'll just keep watching the "how to..." clips on youtube until then!
I'd love to hear anyone's tips and advice on this stuff if they've gone down this road already.
Cheers
Been a week since it was washed (see post on 16Feb above) and I feel these pics mask a few imperfections but also distort the colour - looks a bit flame red for my liking!
I think its a combination of lighting/cloud cover on the day and camera quality, but mainly the paintwork condition. The previous post shows the car wet after washing, and thats the look I want to achieve full time, more of which later.
This last pic shows the tattiness of the "ROVER" badge, the "820i" one is the same. Cant seem to find new ones so far - hope I can get them restored at some point.
Here are a couple of (non exhaustive) imperfection close ups:
First, a nice long scratch along the lower NSR door. You can also see a couple of small rust spots waiting to burst out near the bottom of the wheel arch. The rest is dirt and road debris.
Second, drivers door looks like it stood beside an enthustiastic road gritter for some time! These spots are through the top coat, think it needs repainting. Also, drivers door handle been replaced with non matching colour, but again I think the camera did some of its own colour matching, reducing the effect.
About the paintwork generally, my previous experience only extends to washing with carplan shampoo and polishing with AutoGlym car polish, but I gather there's a whole other world of "colour restoration" and "car detailing" out there. I think I need to take a peek into this parallel realm if the car is to be properly presented! I want the real showroom look here.
It has plenty of micro scratches and swirls, and running your finger along any of it soon teaches you how a badger's arse must feel
The plan brewing involves clay bar and lube, meguiares paint cleaner, meguiares polish, and meguiares gold wax. Also on the shopping list are a decent variable speed polishing machine and a healthy supply of bonnets and microfibre cloths. Oh, and a good couple of full days in good weather and a nice environment (like the driveway in the pics).
Hopefully then the majority of the car will be really top notch, and painting can be minimized to a couple of small really bad bits. I think properly restored paintwork should also help colour matching and finishing too if painting does have to take place?
Probably be a few months before I can justify the money on some of this stuff (everything I want to use stacks up to over 100 quid!) and also get the weather, so I guess I'll just keep watching the "how to..." clips on youtube until then!
I'd love to hear anyone's tips and advice on this stuff if they've gone down this road already.
Cheers
Mark
91H 820i Auto F/B Nordic Blue 32k
91H 820i Auto F/B Nightfire 65k
99V 825 Sterling Auto 4dr BRG 77k
91H 820i Auto F/B Nordic Blue 32k
91H 820i Auto F/B Nightfire 65k
99V 825 Sterling Auto 4dr BRG 77k
- Richard C
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The clay bar etc. route is well worth the effort it really will restore the paint work although best to deal with the chips first. I did mine even thought it was silver the amount of muck that came off was amazing, you'll be glad you did.
Richard
@Rich_Clements
1989 827 Si Fastback, Manual, Pulsar Silver Metalic
2013 Vauxhall Astra 1.7CDTi EcoFlex, Macadamia
@Rich_Clements
1989 827 Si Fastback, Manual, Pulsar Silver Metalic
2013 Vauxhall Astra 1.7CDTi EcoFlex, Macadamia
- Very Tall Brad
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As well as listning to Rich C (above) you should contact John (47p2) as he is over a hundred years old and is a dab hand at making cars look like they're wet they are so shiny. And ask Neo, too. He spends so much time polishing his Coupe (he's frightened to use it in case it boils over) it's a wonder there's anything left of the paint on that bodywork.
As regards some nice (NEW) badges...I'll have a look later in my box. I have dozens of new Rover scripts -they come in subtlely different sizes!- and , I am sure, a new 820i badge.
I'll report back later after a cuppa tea and a hot dog.
As regards some nice (NEW) badges...I'll have a look later in my box. I have dozens of new Rover scripts -they come in subtlely different sizes!- and , I am sure, a new 820i badge.
I'll report back later after a cuppa tea and a hot dog.
No longer an 800 owner!
- Very Tall Brad
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