Charles' early 92 827 manual coupe
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Re: Charles' early 92 827 manual coupe
When exactly does the clonk occur? Which direction are you turning the wheel and is it only once, is it speed related, anything else happening and is it only when you've just strted the car and if so, within 8-10 seconds?
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Re: Charles' early 92 827 manual coupe
scoobyh123 wrote: ↑Fri May 31, 2019 7:28 amWhen exactly does the clonk occur? Which direction are you turning the wheel and is it only once, is it speed related, anything else happening and is it only when you've just strted the car and if so, within 8-10 seconds?
Not certain Dave, but only one clonk on four seperate occasions when turning from full/nearly full lock, reversing.
Clonk apparent 'just after' turning the wheel from nearly full lock.
Each time at slow reversing speed.
Last time this happened, I was turning the wheel from right to left.
I can't say if thats been the case on each of four occasions.
Occurred when car is warm - not after starting car.
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Re: Charles' early 92 827 manual coupe
Does it only do it in reverse? Also when you say the engine was warm, had you just restarted a few seconds previously or was it warm without switching off at all since the cold start?
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Re: Charles' early 92 827 manual coupe
scoobyh123 wrote: ↑Fri May 31, 2019 7:48 amDoes it only do it in reverse? Also when you say the engine was warm, had you just restarted a few seconds previously or was it warm without switching off at all since the cold start?
As I say Dave, its only ever happened on four seperate occasions im aware of. Quite rare.
But come to think about it, out of the four times, on one instance I was in first gear. And I just restarted the car after it had been up to temp.
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Re: Charles' early 92 827 manual coupe
If it happens after starting/restarting, the ABS does a self-check about 8-10 seconds after being powered up. THis causes a momentary blip on the brakes, most of the time it's not even noticed but if you happen to be moving (especially if you're going slow), turning or have the brakes lightly applied, you are likely to hear a clunk from the sudden pulse of pressure.
Think it needs more investigation with more specific notes on when it actually happens and if there's any other feedback - a twitch on the brake pedal or steering wheel for example.
Also worth checking the bottom ball joints, track rod ends, brake reaction bar bushes and also the upper wishbone bearings. All of those 4 things can cause a clunk, if it's not the normal sounds/behaviour of the ABS system, first point to check would be upper wishbone bearings/bushes followed very closely by the bottom ball joints then track rod ends and finally brake reaction bar bushes.
Think it needs more investigation with more specific notes on when it actually happens and if there's any other feedback - a twitch on the brake pedal or steering wheel for example.
Also worth checking the bottom ball joints, track rod ends, brake reaction bar bushes and also the upper wishbone bearings. All of those 4 things can cause a clunk, if it's not the normal sounds/behaviour of the ABS system, first point to check would be upper wishbone bearings/bushes followed very closely by the bottom ball joints then track rod ends and finally brake reaction bar bushes.
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Re: Charles' early 92 827 manual coupe
I can say with certainty, the coupe needs a new drivers side front suspension bush. This was highlighted and shown to me at the recent mechanical inspection.scoobyh123 wrote: ↑Fri May 31, 2019 8:29 amIf it happens after starting/restarting, the ABS does a self-check about 8-10 seconds after being powered up. THis causes a momentary blip on the brakes, most of the time it's not even noticed but if you happen to be moving (especially if you're going slow), turning or have the brakes lightly applied, you are likely to hear a clunk from the sudden pulse of pressure.
Think it needs more investigation with more specific notes on when it actually happens and if there's any other feedback - a twitch on the brake pedal or steering wheel for example.
Also worth checking the bottom ball joints, track rod ends, brake reaction bar bushes and also the upper wishbone bearings. All of those 4 things can cause a clunk, if it's not the normal sounds/behaviour of the ABS system, first point to check would be upper wishbone bearings/bushes followed very closely by the bottom ball joints then track rod ends and finally brake reaction bar bushes.
New bush is like 60quid from Rimmers
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Re: Charles' early 92 827 manual coupe
Do you mean the upper wishbone bush?
I'm not even sure RImmers still have those and the rubber parts will now be 20+ years old - not good!
I keep thinking about a pair of these :
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/acu ... +arm,10401
That's the complete arm including the upper ball joint but they're handed. Also because they're a different design, you'd have to do the pair.
I'm not even sure RImmers still have those and the rubber parts will now be 20+ years old - not good!
I keep thinking about a pair of these :
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/acu ... +arm,10401
That's the complete arm including the upper ball joint but they're handed. Also because they're a different design, you'd have to do the pair.
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Re: Charles' early 92 827 manual coupe
Its the bush (or bearing) which fits into the lower suspension arm - not upper joint.scoobyh123 wrote: ↑Fri May 31, 2019 8:47 amDo you mean the upper wishbone bush?
I'm not even sure RImmers still have those and the rubber parts will now be 20+ years old - not good!
I keep thinking about a pair of these :
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/acu ... +arm,10401
That's the complete arm including the upper ball joint but they're handed. Also because they're a different design, you'd have to do the pair.
I have a brand new Rover lower arm bought for £38.00..but I'll need the bush/bearing that goes into it.
This was available at Rimmer Brothers last week when I checked.
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Re: Charles' early 92 827 manual coupe
That would also cause a clunk if the lower arm bush is knackered. If the right hand bush is dead, it won't be long before the left goes the same way.
You could buy 2 for £26 from Rock Auto, obviously there's S&H, currency transfer and possibly Customs Import VAT on top but still a lot cheaper than £76 + P&P from RImmers.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/acu ... shing,7532
Could be worth a look!
You could buy 2 for £26 from Rock Auto, obviously there's S&H, currency transfer and possibly Customs Import VAT on top but still a lot cheaper than £76 + P&P from RImmers.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/acu ... shing,7532
Could be worth a look!
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Re: Charles' early 92 827 manual coupe
So will the bush (pictured) fit into the arm (also pictured) ?scoobyh123 wrote: ↑Fri May 31, 2019 7:08 pmThat would also cause a clunk if the lower arm bush is knackered. If the right hand bush is dead, it won't be long before the left goes the same way.
You could buy 2 for £26 from Rock Auto, obviously there's S&H, currency transfer and possibly Customs Import VAT on top but still a lot cheaper than £76 + P&P from RImmers.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/acu ... shing,7532
Could be worth a look!
The arm has two bush's that I see.
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Re: Charles' early 92 827 manual coupe
Yes, but it's difficult to say which end as they're two different sizes i think.
Might be easier (possibly cheaper?) to buy the complete lower arms?
Might be easier (possibly cheaper?) to buy the complete lower arms?
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Re: Charles' early 92 827 manual coupe
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Re: Charles' early 92 827 manual coupe
I think the best thing for me to do, (before I buy anything) is to check with the person who inspected the car (he is an MOT tester)
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Re: Charles' early 92 827 manual coupe
The part numbered 25 is the knuckle and the driveshaft goes through the bog hole in the middle with the wheel bearing to support it as it goes through.
There are no bushes on the knuckle, only the wheel bearing. As you suggest, best option for now is to get the MoT tester to confirm exactly which part you need - no sense buying bits that don't need doing (yet) and not get the bit that does.
There are no bushes on the knuckle, only the wheel bearing. As you suggest, best option for now is to get the MoT tester to confirm exactly which part you need - no sense buying bits that don't need doing (yet) and not get the bit that does.
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Re: Charles' early 92 827 manual coupe
I can't remember if it was this thread or Henriks thread where we were discussing the mystery "snake oil" i've found that gave good results as an injector cleaner and i sid i would reveal what it was until i'd tried it in the Sterling. I did today as i went to the monthly Rover meet.
Coming back from the meet there's a hill, quite a steep hill that 2nd was the default gear for in the past. Appraoching it on the flat, it's a 30mph limit full of spped humps so 20-25mph is more realistic.
I didn't realise i was in 3rd today until, on a light ish throttle (was still in the 30 limit but going up the hill) it changed into top at about 26-27mph which even on the flat was unheard of before, even when running water injection.
As the hill got steeper, it did drop back into 3rd but it was pulling as if it was in 2nd, not 3rd - the rev counter and speedo proved it was 3rd and not 2nd though!
Suppose i'd best reveal a bit more now!
Syringe with 50ml of the "special stuff" ready to into the can ^^^^^
Any guesses?
No? OK, here it is then :
I reckon 50ml in a full tank for regular cleaning, same amount in half a tank for heavy duty cleaning and it also helps revive rubber seals, quieten noisy pumps and also rust proof the tank from the inside out. This last point has been proven in the tractor enthusiasts community so know it to be true. The other benefits for us are just awesome.
Coming back from the meet there's a hill, quite a steep hill that 2nd was the default gear for in the past. Appraoching it on the flat, it's a 30mph limit full of spped humps so 20-25mph is more realistic.
I didn't realise i was in 3rd today until, on a light ish throttle (was still in the 30 limit but going up the hill) it changed into top at about 26-27mph which even on the flat was unheard of before, even when running water injection.
As the hill got steeper, it did drop back into 3rd but it was pulling as if it was in 2nd, not 3rd - the rev counter and speedo proved it was 3rd and not 2nd though!
Suppose i'd best reveal a bit more now!
Syringe with 50ml of the "special stuff" ready to into the can ^^^^^
Any guesses?
No? OK, here it is then :
I reckon 50ml in a full tank for regular cleaning, same amount in half a tank for heavy duty cleaning and it also helps revive rubber seals, quieten noisy pumps and also rust proof the tank from the inside out. This last point has been proven in the tractor enthusiasts community so know it to be true. The other benefits for us are just awesome.
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