Thunderbird2 & Turbo Coupes

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scoobyh123
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Re: Thunderbird 2, The Green Machine & Turbo Coupe

Post by scoobyh123 » Sat Apr 03, 2021 2:44 pm

Fastback wrote:
Sat Apr 03, 2021 2:30 pm
It's a bit of a sickener regarding the bumper, people have no respect :( . The number of times my bumpers are damaged is unbelievable, usually the corners where folk misjudge parking. But to crack it, that's a fair whack and 'whoever' must've known.

But then, it doesn't matter, it's just a crummy old Rover... :evil:
We'll still have the last laugh though Mark as long after their diseasel Euro-sh!tboxes have gone for scrap our Rovers will still be running.

I thought it was the paint that had cracked, if it's the bumper as well i have an intact spare but it's gold. Will match the wheels for a while at least! :wink: :D
Cheers,
Dave

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Re: Thunderbird 2, The Green Machine & Turbo Coupe

Post by mercedade » Sun Apr 04, 2021 8:16 pm

Spare gold bumper eh? :)

I know someone looking for one of them...
Adrian
1998 Rover Mk2 820 Vitesse Hatchback (white gold)
Gone...1998 Rover Mk2 820 Vitesse Hatchback (green)
Gone...1992 Rover Mk1 827 SLi Manual (green)
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Re: Thunderbird 2, The Green Machine & Turbo Coupe

Post by scoobyh123 » Sun Apr 04, 2021 8:53 pm

If Scott doesn't want it Adrian then you have first refusal. It's White Gold 2 and i can't remember if it's from the V plate KV6 i broke or the M reg 827 SLi i owned for a while, think it might be the latter and the bumper from the V reg ended up on the SLi. Couple of scuffs here and there but intact. I have vague memories it previously served duty on TGM, i have a gold drivers wing (ex V reg KV6) that served temporary duty on it and i think the bumper did too but might be wrong on that.
Cheers,
Dave

'02 Honda CR-V SE Executive
'99 Jag S Type 3.0 V6 SE


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Re: Thunderbird 2, The Green Machine & Turbo Coupe

Post by mercedade » Mon Apr 05, 2021 8:40 am

No worries Dave - I've just re-read the original post and saw that it's the front bumper cracked. Mine is scuffed, but will polish up much better. It's the rear that's cracked on mine.

I'm having deja vu about this, we must have already discussed bumpers!
Adrian
1998 Rover Mk2 820 Vitesse Hatchback (white gold)
Gone...1998 Rover Mk2 820 Vitesse Hatchback (green)
Gone...1992 Rover Mk1 827 SLi Manual (green)
Gone...1998 Rover Mk2 825 Diesel (green)

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Re: Thunderbird 2, The Green Machine & Turbo Coupe

Post by scoobyh123 » Mon Apr 05, 2021 10:53 am

Think you might be right Adrian, i don't have a rear bumper sadly though.
Cheers,
Dave

'02 Honda CR-V SE Executive
'99 Jag S Type 3.0 V6 SE


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'88 Volvo 760 V6 Estate
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Re: Thunderbird 2, The Green Machine & Turbo Coupe

Post by Lodein » Sun Apr 11, 2021 7:15 am

I saw that is the same in all country !!!

When I take my 406 coupé, I am still worried because the bumpers are very very fragile, they are very difficult to repair (or even impossible) and for a while they were no longer available from Peugeot. Now they are, but at 1200 € each !!!

Lodein
Last edited by Lodein on Sun Apr 11, 2021 5:23 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Thunderbird 2, The Green Machine & Turbo Coupe

Post by scotty2 » Sun Apr 11, 2021 12:04 pm

The damage on TGMs bumper is not terminal. Bit of tlc should restore it.

Not today though. It's been snowing here in East Yorkshire!

Battery died on TB2 so I was glad I swapped it out on Friday afternoon. It had been left flat a few times when at the garage so that will have finished it off. Windows reset to stop beeping and I even know the code to the radio now off by heart. - 4968 - just in case I forget - And don't come pinching it now I have released the code!
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Re: Thunderbird 2, The Green Machine & Turbo Coupe

Post by scotty2 » Mon Apr 26, 2021 11:56 am

Now it is getting warmer, I have put TB2 in storage and brought out the Coupe - it has Air Con.
I started to look in the boot for the sunroof drains to see where the water is getting in. Any tips as I couldn't see anything at first glance? Nothing in the manual.
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Re: Thunderbird 2, The Green Machine & Turbo Coupe

Post by scoobyh123 » Mon Apr 26, 2021 12:25 pm

Pull back or remove the trim liners in the boot between the rear lights and wheel arches. The sunroof drains should be visible fairly eaily then, just aft of the arches at boot floor level. If possible post a few pics and i'll try and download them then mark the drains for you.

***EDIT*** Nearly forgot, on the seam where the boot seal fits, check near the screeen end on both sides. There's an overlapping bodywork seam here that doesn't always get its fair share of seam sealer in the factory so water gets in and rots the seam from the inside out.
Cheers,
Dave

'02 Honda CR-V SE Executive
'99 Jag S Type 3.0 V6 SE


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Re: Thunderbird 2, The Green Machine & Turbo Coupe

Post by Fastback » Mon Apr 26, 2021 2:58 pm

Other points of water ingress are the air vents behind the liner; it has certainly happened to me. I prefer to tackle this one from the outside, stopping the water getting in in the first place but it means removing the bumper.

Image

Sorry the vent part is out of focus because this was a picture regarding the bumper bracket. Water runs down the car body, tracks behind the bumper, rests on that ledge and with capilliary action, gets in. I have run a bead of sealer round the outer edges to stop water entering, rather than relying on the foam sealer on the inside.

If you don't want to remove the bumper just yet (or at all), then you'll have to seal the rim of vent inside (it unscrews), trying to arrest the water once it has technically already breached the body of the car.

Of course I have made the assumption the air vents are present on the coupe as well :) .
Mark
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Re: Thunderbird 2, The Green Machine & Turbo Coupe

Post by scotty2 » Mon Apr 26, 2021 3:33 pm

Thanks.

I'll have a better chance of finding it now.
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Re: Thunderbird 2, The Green Machine & Turbo Coupe

Post by scotty2 » Mon May 03, 2021 12:42 pm

A bit of Bank Holiday maintenance.
TGM continues to be haunted. Speedo only working intermittently, so I bought a new transducer. I had the same issue with TB2 and that solved it. Not with TGM. driving at an indicated 148 then zero then 90 down the bypass was a failed tests run! 55 through the village despite crawling means more work to do.

While changing the transducer, I noticed damp on the front of the block. The metal pipe from the thermostat housing that runs along the block past the dipstick has corroded and is weeping. Rather than changing the whole pipe (I don't have one anyway), I cut out the rotten section and replaced with 5/8" heater hose. using a bit of the old pipe as a coupler. Drained and flushed the coolant and refilled with proper blue antifreeze mix. Ran up to temperature and all is well - apart from the ghosts in the machine!
When you start the car, the A/C beeps until you press "Auto".
When running up the car to heat up, the horn beeped twice in quick succession occasionally - as if to say stop messing about with me! My Son made me laugh by saying "What's that Brum? you want to come out to play...."
It still randomly locks itself less so in warmer weather.

I wonder if I should change the fusebox to the resoldered one Dave did for me?
Any tips on wacky Speedometers?

Or a Priest?


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Re: Thunderbird 2, The Green Machine & Turbo Coupe

Post by scoobyh123 » Mon May 03, 2021 1:22 pm

**** Edited to include the ATC Diagnostics ****



The speedo problem sounds like an instrument problem to me Scott. Is the interior damp at all from lack of use maybe?

Usually if the sensor is the problem, the speedo just dies until the sensor has warmed up enough to evaporate the moisture from it - periodically i have to "bake" the sensor on my Sterling at 60-70C in the oven for ~1hr to expel the moisture and resume normal operation. I keep threatening to seal it somehow after baking, perhaps with some heatshrink sleeving.

As a test, try swapping the cluster with one of your other cars, i suspect the speedo will function normally in TGM if i'm right. It only needs a few miles and talking of which, did you happen to notice if the odo/trip meters worked normally while the needle was indicating 148, 90 and 55mph when you weren't doing anything like?
If they were clocking the mileage on normally then it's safe to say the instrument itself is the problem. I've not had a Rover speedo apart (they're normally pretty reliable) but ive recently had a Volvo cluster apart, a Yazaki item and i think some of the Rover clusters were too. In this case, it was showing 45mph as soon as the ignition was switched on, didn't alter no matter what the speed was. Found some duff capacitors including one that had leaked so badly it had rotted one of its own legs off and corroded a resistors legs to the point where they were no longer soldered to the board, just held in with a soft combination of verdigris and solder.
As yet it's untested as i don't have a test bed for it (Volvo changed the multiplugs more times than you can shake a stick at) but i'm confident it's fixed.

What are you like working with 15mm domestic copper pipe? Use straight Yorkshire fittings on the ends to give hose barbs and bend the pipe to the shape you need. Use an offcut of pipe hammered flat with a hole drilled in one end to create mouting tabs (or use rubber lined 15mm "P" clips) to solder on to the pipe then when it's all complete, spray it black to match the original and fit.

The fusebox will normally cause other faults to occur and the A/C problem needs you to read the fault codes on it. I'll try and find the relevant document an upload it.

Image

There you go, the fault code reading procdure for the ATC system.

As for the horn beeping twice, that's usually a signal of a mislock - if you had the doors open and it tried to lock itself, it would do that! :wink: :D
Cheers,
Dave

'02 Honda CR-V SE Executive
'99 Jag S Type 3.0 V6 SE


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'94 827 Sterling saloon
'88 Volvo 760 V6 Estate
'95 827 Coupé LPG gone but not forgotten!

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Re: Thunderbird 2, The Green Machine & Turbo Coupe

Post by scotty2 » Mon May 03, 2021 3:08 pm

Thanks Dave. I'll see what the diagnosis is re the A/C. Beeps while door was open - Ha! Yes that would be it.
I dislike dismantling trim as they seem to enjoy having hidden fastners or "look at it and it breaks" tabs on plasticy stuff!.

I'll have a look in the manual to see how difficult it is to remove the speedometer.
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Re: Thunderbird 2, The Green Machine & Turbo Coupe

Post by scoobyh123 » Mon May 03, 2021 3:45 pm

scotty2 wrote:
Mon May 03, 2021 3:08 pm

I'll have a look in the manual to see how difficult it is to remove the speedometer.
Under each end of the dashboard trim panel that covers the instruments and includes the Climate Control pack there are 2 hiddens screws, remove them.

Follow the dash trim round to the left and unclip the cover at the end of it (missing i think on TGM) and loosen the screw hidden underneath it that secures the end of the trim panel.

Lower the steering wheel as far as it goes then in the top of the panel on the underside above and in front of the instruments you'll find three screws, one central, one either side a few inches from centre. Remove those.

Now start easing the trim panel out each end, there are clips behind it that locate above the air vent on the right and if memory serves centrally above the Climate Pack. These will release as you ease the trim out.

Depending how yours is wired, you may have the tailgate wash and wiper buttons above the Climate Pack, on the right there will be the alarm LED and probably front and rear fog light switches (the fogs and rear w/w may be swapped) so ease the trim further out and unplug the wiring to the switches and lighting behind the trim.

Ease the trim further out still until you can unplug the tiny fan and cabin temperature sensor on the left hand end, pull it out a bit more and unplug the two plugs in the back of the Climate Pack.

The dash trim panel should be free by now. If so, you can wriggle it out over the top of the steering wheel whichever way seems to work best at the time.

Behind that you will see something like this :

Image

Those 3 white "pads" above and in front of the speedo are for the 3 screws securing the top of the trim panel - bottome left of the cluster you can see one of the 4 lugs with a screw hole that secures the instrument cluster to the car, the others are in similar positions in each "corner" of the cluster. Remove those screws and ease the cluster towards you, tipping it downwards to find the multiplugs on the back - disconnect those and pull it to freedom.

Refitting you "Haynes it". In this pic, you can see the slot for the clip that holds the top of the trim panel into the dash, similar one the other end above the vent.

Image

It's actually a fairly quick and easy operation, once you've had some practice at it you'll find it's not a long job at all. When refitting the screws, particularly the lower ones, get them in position then turn the screwdriver as if loosening them while pushing in the direction they move when tightening. As the screw finds the beginning of the thread you'll feel the screwdriver give a little and then turn it the correct way to tighten. Leave all screws loose/finger-tight until all are in and the dash trim is fully home having found its "proper" place. :wink: :D
Cheers,
Dave

'02 Honda CR-V SE Executive
'99 Jag S Type 3.0 V6 SE


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'94 827 Sterling saloon
'88 Volvo 760 V6 Estate
'95 827 Coupé LPG gone but not forgotten!

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