It's time to get the Vitesse back on the road, it's been SORN since last summer and I started her up last weekend. Still running fine, but I think the radiator has finally gone. It was losing some coolant before I took it off the road, but over the 8 months it's laid idle, most of the coolant has gone.
I'm not sure what I should do long term. I will get it MOT'd and sort out the loss of coolant, then I might think about finally selling it on. It's going to be hard though after 18 years of ownership.
Mike
Back on the Road
- scoobyh123
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Re: Back on the Road
Get it MoT'd and enjoy it MIke! I'm guessing it's manual so you shouldn't have a problem finding a radiator, probably cost you about £130 ish based on what i paid for mine last year. For some reason, 800 values seem to have taken a hit this year so now wouldn't be a good time to sell.
Also don't forget to use ethylene glycol (the blue stuff) and NOT the red stuff when you refill the cooling system after you've flushed it, tested and flushed it again to make sure any and all dirt/sediment is gone - don't want a clogged cooling system cooking the engine for you!
Also don't forget to use ethylene glycol (the blue stuff) and NOT the red stuff when you refill the cooling system after you've flushed it, tested and flushed it again to make sure any and all dirt/sediment is gone - don't want a clogged cooling system cooking the engine for you!
- scoobyh123
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Re: Back on the Road
Can't see it in the pic Mick, what engine is it from and is it on top of the engine or below? A part number from Rimmers (I'm guessing that's where the pic came from) might help in identification and/or finding a suitable replacement.
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Re: Back on the Road
2.0 litre turbo Vitesse, T series, 1997. The pic is from Rimmers, but surprisingly, they no longer display the part number, I guess because it is nla. It runs across in front of the cylinder head, from the thermostat housing, then round behind to meet the heater valve. It's a steel pipe, with various brackets attached, approximately 15mm diameter.
Could probably manufacture something suitable, without the brackets, from stainless steel tube.
I had another unusual happening today, whereby the battery, new in February last year, packed up completely, measuring only 1.6 volts across the terminals. Fortunately it came with a 3 year warranty and I am picking up a replacement tomorrow.
Could probably manufacture something suitable, without the brackets, from stainless steel tube.
I had another unusual happening today, whereby the battery, new in February last year, packed up completely, measuring only 1.6 volts across the terminals. Fortunately it came with a 3 year warranty and I am picking up a replacement tomorrow.
- scoobyh123
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Re: Back on the Road
I think i may have one of those pipes in that case - if not, forget stainless, buy yourself a length of 15mm copper pipe and a pair of Yorkshire ends/joiners.
Bend it to shape, solder a Yorkshire fitting on each end to create the swages for hose retention and then use some of the off-cut to make the brackets by hammering flat, cutting, bending and drilling as required then solder the brackets onto the pipe. Give it a trial fit and if all is good, remove and paint it in Satin Black. Once dry, fit and forget!
Job done!
Which alternator have you got on your car? It's possible it's not charging the battery properly if it's a calcium battery. I had this very problem and solved it with a diode, depending which alternator you've got, you may or may not be able to do the same. Mine now charges at 14.7-15.1V and i haven't had a problem since, thankfully except when i haven't used the car for a while!
Bend it to shape, solder a Yorkshire fitting on each end to create the swages for hose retention and then use some of the off-cut to make the brackets by hammering flat, cutting, bending and drilling as required then solder the brackets onto the pipe. Give it a trial fit and if all is good, remove and paint it in Satin Black. Once dry, fit and forget!
Job done!
Which alternator have you got on your car? It's possible it's not charging the battery properly if it's a calcium battery. I had this very problem and solved it with a diode, depending which alternator you've got, you may or may not be able to do the same. Mine now charges at 14.7-15.1V and i haven't had a problem since, thankfully except when i haven't used the car for a while!
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