Fastback's cars.

[Fastback]

Thanks Dave. I'll see if that's what they want to do. I have already siliconed the existing seal, which I must admit, looks okay, but as you say, it is older and we all loose our newness.

Going to do the rear door seals today whilst the weather's holding up and then I can see where were up to. Big dash to get this finished before the weather really sets in.

Oh, and I think I need a new slave cylinder on the Vitesse, the clutch pedal is occasionally staying down...

[scoobyh123]

I ended up renewing my boot seal as a last resort Mark and was amazed by the difference it made - the original looked good and appeared to seal well but in fact was pretty useless at sealing.

I may be reading the situation wrong but i get the impression the car belongs to someone else and you're doing bits and pieces to help out - might be an idea to be a little crafty and renew the boot seal as "part of other works", especially if there is still a minor leak.

That said, the silicone grease may well revive it enough for winter.

Bummer about the slave cylinder on the Vitesse, when did you last renew the brake fluid?

[Fastback]

Bummer about the slave cylinder on the Vitesse, when did you last renew the brake fluid?

Can't honestly remember. I topped it up the other day, the warning light was on. I have one of those little moisture testers and it's showing 1-2% but I have not driven the car since putting fluid in.

[scoobyh123]

Might be worth renewing the brake fluid and clutch fluid then Mark. Without wishing to blow my own trumpet, this is definitely worth a read before you do, made a world of difference to the brakes in my Sterling :

http://www.rover800.info/forum/viewtopi ... =9&t=14923

I made a modified brake fluid reservoir cap from an old cap, i have a spare one i found the other day (while hunting for the bumper grommets) with a bent float pin so that would be ideal to modify to use with the Gunsons Easibleed.

That said, i also turned a cap up on the lathe and made a clamp to hold it in place during bleeding.

[Fastback]

Thanks for the link.

Do I therefore assume you believe the problem of a sticky pedal may be alliviated by changing the fluid? I have been told that this issue, which could also be gearbox (PG1 of course), is reknowned. Incidentally, the rear driver's side calliper is a little down on grip and sweep.

However, I understood that the PG1 is actually pretty decent, bar plastic cages, because relatively, it is quite simple?

[scoobyh123]

Thanks for the link.

Do I therefore assume you believe the problem of a sticky pedal may be alliviated by changing the fluid? I have been told that this issue, which could also be gearbox (PG1 of course), is reknowned. Incidentally, the rear driver's side calliper is a little down on grip and sweep.

However, I understood that the PG1 is actually pretty decent, bar plastic cages, because relatively, it is quite simple?

You're welcome Mark - as for mybelief the problem may be alleviated by changing the fluid, yes. I've come to the conclusion the only way to successfully bleed the brake and/or clutch hydraulics on the 800 is to use a pressure bleeder and a few little tricks as described for the brake system. Obviously for the clutch side, you need the piston retracted as far as possible into the slave cylinder, the nipple uppermost and if needs be, a clamp to prevent the piston coming out such as a G-clamp or simlar.
Also following my suggestions in that post about the rear brakes should sort out the sticking offside rear caliper.

The PG1 box is a well known gearbox and generally pretty robust. As there is no direct mechanical connection between the clutch pedal and gearbox (it's through the hydraulic slave cylinder) i don't see the connection - i'd hazard a guess those reporting a link may in fact have more than one problem, worn linkage bushes for example preventing proper selection of gears regardless of the state of the clutch and its operating mechanism.

[scoobyh123]

Mark - my apologies! I posted the wrong link for the boot seal further up!

The correct one is this one, Cortina boot seal, sold by the metere and you need 4m :

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/231888851340

Sorry for any confusion caused!

[Fastback]

No problems Dave, realised it wasn't quite right but there was something similar on the same page and I thought you might be refering to that. Haven't done anything about it just yet, waiting for some rain to see where we are. Think we get some today.

I believe I've found the leak that was coming from behind the panels on the left of the boot and it was coming from here,



Yep, the fuel filler recess. You can see the corrosion on the seam and around the bump stop. All that has been cleaned up, paste seam sealer applied so it doesn't form a 'well' where water can sit and repainted. I have also CT'd the rubber bump stop apertures just in case.

As mentioned above, I cleaned up all the door rubber seals but after some more rain there was still water in the rear footwell . However the furry door seal was dry, which means it's getting in somewhere else and that somewhere else is here,



Driver's footwell, just by the bonnet release but tracking from up behind the dash somewhere, not sunroof drain nor wiring loom. Just what I don't want! Using what I learnt about leakage points on my own car, I just set to and removed all the windscreen trim and the plastic in the engine bay and revealed a very common sight,



One quick vacuum job later,



Not great. May quickly fashion some fibre glass or just not bother... The scuttle panel is also completely shot, big hole right in the middle and it's only the rubber strip holding it together . No idea what to do with that, not in the remit.

For those that don't know, or for me when I forget, the top trim on the windscreen is held with those angled slide clips. I got a thin piece of wood, slotted it down the between the trim and roof at each clip point and tapped them to the left of the car (as sat in the driver seat). Each clip will then disengage from the pin mount point and the trim can be removed without damage. It is better to remove the side trims first (well, scuttle panel first) before doing the top.

[scoobyh123]

You might be able to find one of those panels on ebay from someone breaking a car Mark, not sure if Rimmers stock them or how much. It looks like they do, a whopping £8.40, item #10 :

https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GRID004570

The diagram seems to show something not quite the right shape but i've encountered that many times on Rimmers but usually it's the right bit. Volvo are even worse on their parts diagrams so i think it's a common problem!

[Fastback]

It's parts one and seven that are required sadly. That little plate hasn't been available for years but I did have one remade a while ago (15 years?) but I don't believe anyone could for anything like a reasonable price, it cost £25 then.

[scoobyh123]

It's parts one and seven that are required sadly. That little plate hasn't been available for years but I did have one remade a while ago (15 years?) but I don't believe anyone could for anything like a reasonable price, it cost £25 then.

Ah, yes, iem #1 looks much more like it, my mistake!

I have a #7 in the shed, reasonable but not great, getting it to you would be the problem though. I'd need to double-check it's not a Coupe scuttle though, just in case! Yours for the cost of postage if you like. Wouldn't be cheap because of the length and by the tim i find a piece of wood to scrw it to with spacers to keep the shape, wouldn't be fantastically light either.

[Fastback]

Sorry Dave, can I just confirm the part you're offering please?

Part 7 is the engine bay plate which is quite small, part 1 is the scuttle panel, which as you allude to is long and flimsey. I have enlarged the diagram and placed bigger numbers.



Thanks.

[scoobyh123]

Sorry Dave, can I just confirm the part you're offering please?

Part 7 is the engine bay plate which is quite small, part 1 is the scuttle panel, which as you allude to is long and flimsey. I have enlarged the diagram and placed bigger numbers.



Thanks.

Sorry Mark, typo! I should have said #1, the scuttle panel. I'll have a look tomorrow and make sure it's not a Coupe one.

[Fastback]

Great, thanks Dave.

[mercedade]

My understanding is that they all fit across all models, but some have resting posts and some don't - but regardless of 'correctness', they all fit.