Fastback's cars.
- Fastback
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Re: Fastback's cars.
I thought I would share this image regarding this door seal issue. I have done all eight doors (sunroof and boot to follow) whilst the weather has been lovely and this seal shows the problem beautifully. Well actually it's quite grim...
But what it does show is dirt under the seal and therefore clearly not sealing. I have removed all door seals, thoroughly cleaned them and the corresponding body work and the covered the seal and the seal on the car body in Carlube Silicon Grease. I use that one because it has a lower viscosity than some.
I would recommend that other folk check this out as a maintenance item, those with garages may be excused.
But what it does show is dirt under the seal and therefore clearly not sealing. I have removed all door seals, thoroughly cleaned them and the corresponding body work and the covered the seal and the seal on the car body in Carlube Silicon Grease. I use that one because it has a lower viscosity than some.
I would recommend that other folk check this out as a maintenance item, those with garages may be excused.
Mark
'99 Sterling KV6 Fastback
'96 Vitesse Lux Fastback, rolling resto
'96 825 SLi Fastback, just waiting.
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MG Maestro 2.0i (I loved that car, I did)
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- scoobyh123
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Re: Fastback's cars.
I normally smear silicone grease on my door seals (and boot and bonnet too) before winter sets in Mark. Leave it on for 20 minutes ish, wipe gently off. It helps to keep the seals from drying out, prevents freezing to the door frame/body etc and also maintains the seals doing what they should.
Little known service point on the annual service is to treat the sunroof seal the same way, it quietens it down especially when driving over bumpy roads and helps keep it supple and seal the wet stuff and noise out too. Smear it on, let it soak in for ~20 minutes then wipe off the excess.
That said, i haven't noticed my seals accumulating dirt like yours appear to have done - perhaps wiping the silicone grease on each year has kept them springy enough to "bounce" the dirt out?
Little known service point on the annual service is to treat the sunroof seal the same way, it quietens it down especially when driving over bumpy roads and helps keep it supple and seal the wet stuff and noise out too. Smear it on, let it soak in for ~20 minutes then wipe off the excess.
That said, i haven't noticed my seals accumulating dirt like yours appear to have done - perhaps wiping the silicone grease on each year has kept them springy enough to "bounce" the dirt out?
- Fastback
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Re: Fastback's cars.
I too usually apply silicone once or twice a year to the surfaces but can't recall having taken the seals off previously. It is a bit wetter up north, west coast too and perhaps parking on a slope doesn't help either.
Mark
'99 Sterling KV6 Fastback
'96 Vitesse Lux Fastback, rolling resto
'96 825 SLi Fastback, just waiting.
Previous:- 'J' 820Si Fastback, part Tickford
MG Maestro 2.0i (I loved that car, I did)
'99 Sterling KV6 Fastback
'96 Vitesse Lux Fastback, rolling resto
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MG Maestro 2.0i (I loved that car, I did)
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Re: Fastback's cars.
Maybe i've been lucky, we get a lot of wind straight off the North Sea here mixed with "fen blow" which is like a sandstorm but using the fine, sandy soil off the fens - probably similar to what gets blown at your cars?
- Fastback
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Re: Fastback's cars.
Continuing to work on the inside of the doors, I have further developed my front door handle support. We all know how fragile the mk2 handle is and a while ago I had slightly weaker springs made (available to purchase) and have now modified the support. Using the 3D printer with a more durable material, I have made this
This is a little piece that fits on top of the bowl to take the strain of the return spring (it is that flimsy bit of plastic that breaks and gives you a floppy handle). Previously I have used a metal plate and two part epoxy but it appears that fails over time. I am trying a new approach with polyurethane glue (eg Gorilla Glue, other brands are available). These glues expand, hence the holes in the support. What happens is that the glue expands into them and through the open holes and then you can tamp it down to form a sort of rivet.
Once the handle is reassembled you can see how it all fits together.
I have also added a nylon washer to the retaining screw and would recommend it as the head on the screw is too small. A good squirt of white grease on all the moving parts and refit.
This is a little piece that fits on top of the bowl to take the strain of the return spring (it is that flimsy bit of plastic that breaks and gives you a floppy handle). Previously I have used a metal plate and two part epoxy but it appears that fails over time. I am trying a new approach with polyurethane glue (eg Gorilla Glue, other brands are available). These glues expand, hence the holes in the support. What happens is that the glue expands into them and through the open holes and then you can tamp it down to form a sort of rivet.
Once the handle is reassembled you can see how it all fits together.
I have also added a nylon washer to the retaining screw and would recommend it as the head on the screw is too small. A good squirt of white grease on all the moving parts and refit.
Last edited by Fastback on Sat Mar 20, 2021 7:51 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Mark
'99 Sterling KV6 Fastback
'96 Vitesse Lux Fastback, rolling resto
'96 825 SLi Fastback, just waiting.
Previous:- 'J' 820Si Fastback, part Tickford
MG Maestro 2.0i (I loved that car, I did)
'99 Sterling KV6 Fastback
'96 Vitesse Lux Fastback, rolling resto
'96 825 SLi Fastback, just waiting.
Previous:- 'J' 820Si Fastback, part Tickford
MG Maestro 2.0i (I loved that car, I did)
- scoobyh123
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Re: Fastback's cars.
Interesting improvement Mark, will be interesting to see how long this improvement lasts. You had reasonable success with your last improvements so hopefully this one can be considered permanent.
- Fastback
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Re: Fastback's cars.
In trying to put a door card back on I noticed the the fit was floppy. I realised that a top door clip was missing. There are several slots atop the inner door skin where these pieces fit. I think Rover removed several of the plastic clips but kept one in each door (there should be three on the back doors and two on the front). It might be only be a small thing but where are you going to get some from? Well, to answer a question asked elsewhere, I copied the part and 3D printed it out.
Mine is the white clip and is a fairly reasonable facsimile. The fine grips on the back have not been reproduced very accurately but that is mostly down to the size of the print head used. Either way, it doesn't really matter as the part grips where it is supposed to and the flexible fin also works.
I'm sure there must be several unique, unobtainable clips etc on the Rovers and it looks like technology is coming to the rescue.
Mine is the white clip and is a fairly reasonable facsimile. The fine grips on the back have not been reproduced very accurately but that is mostly down to the size of the print head used. Either way, it doesn't really matter as the part grips where it is supposed to and the flexible fin also works.
I'm sure there must be several unique, unobtainable clips etc on the Rovers and it looks like technology is coming to the rescue.
Last edited by Fastback on Mon Mar 29, 2021 10:52 am, edited 1 time in total.
Mark
'99 Sterling KV6 Fastback
'96 Vitesse Lux Fastback, rolling resto
'96 825 SLi Fastback, just waiting.
Previous:- 'J' 820Si Fastback, part Tickford
MG Maestro 2.0i (I loved that car, I did)
'99 Sterling KV6 Fastback
'96 Vitesse Lux Fastback, rolling resto
'96 825 SLi Fastback, just waiting.
Previous:- 'J' 820Si Fastback, part Tickford
MG Maestro 2.0i (I loved that car, I did)
- scoobyh123
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Re: Fastback's cars.
Excellent work there Mark! I must get my brain in order and work out the bits i was going to ask you about making in 3D printed plastic plus a couple more that i've recently thought of.............
- Lodein
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Re: Fastback's cars.
Very good job Mark.
It is clear that for our old cars 3D printing is an opportunity but it needs some talent and the 3D printer...
...and we found you
Lodein
It is clear that for our old cars 3D printing is an opportunity but it needs some talent and the 3D printer...
...and we found you
Lodein
Rover 827 Sterling Option Pack 1989 (Non Cat / Manual)
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Re: Fastback's cars.
That's excellent work Mark, really well done
Adrian
1998 Rover Mk2 820 Vitesse Hatchback (white gold)
Gone...1998 Rover Mk2 820 Vitesse Hatchback (green)
Gone...1992 Rover Mk1 827 SLi Manual (green)
Gone...1998 Rover Mk2 825 Diesel (green)
1998 Rover Mk2 820 Vitesse Hatchback (white gold)
Gone...1998 Rover Mk2 820 Vitesse Hatchback (green)
Gone...1992 Rover Mk1 827 SLi Manual (green)
Gone...1998 Rover Mk2 825 Diesel (green)
- Fastback
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Re: Fastback's cars.
Thanks guys.
Still new to 3D printing really, much to learn but it's promising.
Still new to 3D printing really, much to learn but it's promising.
Mark
'99 Sterling KV6 Fastback
'96 Vitesse Lux Fastback, rolling resto
'96 825 SLi Fastback, just waiting.
Previous:- 'J' 820Si Fastback, part Tickford
MG Maestro 2.0i (I loved that car, I did)
'99 Sterling KV6 Fastback
'96 Vitesse Lux Fastback, rolling resto
'96 825 SLi Fastback, just waiting.
Previous:- 'J' 820Si Fastback, part Tickford
MG Maestro 2.0i (I loved that car, I did)
- Fastback
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Re: Fastback's cars.
Does anybody else have this problem?
It has happened to all my vehicles, both sides (not too bad on the Vitesse presently but it's starting) and I believe caused by either the bolt or the bolt aperture that holds the bottom of the light.
Well, I have decided to tackle it . And I'll confess now, I have never done any body work/painting on a car where it can be seen, other than a touch-up pot. In truth, the whole car could do with dealing with properly but I don't think I could make this worse and it's only a small patch, so...
Rubbed back, probably not a big enough area, Kurust applied and primed.
Working outside is a pest, and despite the fine weather it was too windy to topcoat but I'm trying today. Did the other side a couple of days ago.
All needs polishing and then I'll see how well (badly?) I've blended it all and whether I'll take on any more.
It has happened to all my vehicles, both sides (not too bad on the Vitesse presently but it's starting) and I believe caused by either the bolt or the bolt aperture that holds the bottom of the light.
Well, I have decided to tackle it . And I'll confess now, I have never done any body work/painting on a car where it can be seen, other than a touch-up pot. In truth, the whole car could do with dealing with properly but I don't think I could make this worse and it's only a small patch, so...
Rubbed back, probably not a big enough area, Kurust applied and primed.
Working outside is a pest, and despite the fine weather it was too windy to topcoat but I'm trying today. Did the other side a couple of days ago.
All needs polishing and then I'll see how well (badly?) I've blended it all and whether I'll take on any more.
Mark
'99 Sterling KV6 Fastback
'96 Vitesse Lux Fastback, rolling resto
'96 825 SLi Fastback, just waiting.
Previous:- 'J' 820Si Fastback, part Tickford
MG Maestro 2.0i (I loved that car, I did)
'99 Sterling KV6 Fastback
'96 Vitesse Lux Fastback, rolling resto
'96 825 SLi Fastback, just waiting.
Previous:- 'J' 820Si Fastback, part Tickford
MG Maestro 2.0i (I loved that car, I did)
- scoobyh123
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Re: Fastback's cars.
I'm fairly sure it's caused by the drain hole in the bottom of the light (and/or boot lid) clogging so it remains damp around the mounting stud which then corrodes and starts the tailgate/boot lid corroding in the same area.
Good luck with your repaint, i might be wrong but i think even solid colours had clear lacquer over the top, looking good so far though!
Good luck with your repaint, i might be wrong but i think even solid colours had clear lacquer over the top, looking good so far though!
- Fastback
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Re: Fastback's cars.
You're right about clear coat, the Vitesse Flame Red is crazed and peeling badly but this is Oxford Blue Metallic
Certainly something is holding a bit of water and I think it is the little flap at the bottom of the foam sealer that goes round the lower bolt, which doesn't have any pressure to hold it flat against the metal work. Water gets held in that area and then attacks the edge of the hole where paint is thinnest and so the problem starts. That's my theory.
I had cut the little flap off ages ago but that might be allowing water to enter through the aperture into the boot lip where there is no drainage. Now thinking of a grommet or some kind of custom, push fit conical wedge type device widget do dah.
Certainly something is holding a bit of water and I think it is the little flap at the bottom of the foam sealer that goes round the lower bolt, which doesn't have any pressure to hold it flat against the metal work. Water gets held in that area and then attacks the edge of the hole where paint is thinnest and so the problem starts. That's my theory.
I had cut the little flap off ages ago but that might be allowing water to enter through the aperture into the boot lip where there is no drainage. Now thinking of a grommet or some kind of custom, push fit conical wedge type device widget do dah.
Mark
'99 Sterling KV6 Fastback
'96 Vitesse Lux Fastback, rolling resto
'96 825 SLi Fastback, just waiting.
Previous:- 'J' 820Si Fastback, part Tickford
MG Maestro 2.0i (I loved that car, I did)
'99 Sterling KV6 Fastback
'96 Vitesse Lux Fastback, rolling resto
'96 825 SLi Fastback, just waiting.
Previous:- 'J' 820Si Fastback, part Tickford
MG Maestro 2.0i (I loved that car, I did)
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