Fastback's cars.

[Fastback]

I have found the part now, JZV1085, not quite where I thought it would be listed.

Turns out this problem was also seen by 'Shaun's Vitesse' a few years ago. Nice grill.

[scoobyh123]

Eek! That's grim! Missed that in your post yesterday! A semi-permanent fix could be achieved with RTV sealant then clamping/wiring it in place until set. Can't remember the correct name for it just now but i believe it's integral to the inlet manifold or the throttle body.

[scoobyh123]

Just found your second post Mark, good news it's still available and glad i was wrong about it being an integral part!

[Fastback]

I'm definitely glad it's still available as a separate part. In fairness so is the throttle body but at £456!

The Land Rover version of the mounting at £33 is £14 cheaper than MG Rover part.

[scoobyh123]

I'm definitely glad it's still available as a separate part. In fairness so is the throttle body but at £456!

The Land Rover version of the mounting at £33 is £14 cheaper than MG Rover part.

Ouch! I knew one of the bits was expensive with a capital "F" but £456 is ridiculous!

Unusual for the Land-Rover version of the part to be cheaper, normally they add a premium to the price!

[mercedade]

I think it's Landrover/Freelander availability that keeps the price lower for crossover parts (thank God!)

I had the same problem Mark, although not quite as pronounced as yours - I can't remember where I got mine from, but I know I spent bloody ages trying to find a decent supply. Glad you've tracked one down at least. I think I was even looking at some aftermarket alternatives but stuck with rubber in the end.

[Fastback]

Just realised I didn't say where I got it from but perhaps some have guessed. But for reference, of course it was from our favourite brothers, the Rimmers.

[scoobyh123]

Thought you'd been trawling Rimmers there Mark!

[Fastback]

Replaced throttle mounting on the Vitesse, no issues. Think that is where the whistle under acceleration and higher revs was coming from. Really do need to sort the oil leak and rattlely bits in the head, adding transmission fluid just ain't cutting it anymore.

Work continues on the Sterling; I have just replaced the power steering pump with a 'rebuilt' unit (or so it is etched on the casing?). Drained some of the fluid out of the system, what was in the resevoir and above, and replaced with new. Arguably should have drained the lot but time constraints and practicalities get in the way. However, the steering does seem a little lighter now and the removed fluid is positively brown! Probably worth doing properly soon.

[scoobyh123]

Sounds like you need to invest in a 200ml syringe and an empty Pot Noodle pot Mark! After about 3-400 miles or a week or twos driving, use the syringe to empty the PAS reservoir and discharge it into the Pot Noodle container. Top up with fresh fluid, start the engine and bleed the PAS by going slowly from lock to lock several times and recheck the level, topping up if needed. Repeat this at 3-400 mile intervals until the fluid stays clean then each year, empty the reservoir once and top up with fresh, bleed and check after a couple more weeks. If it's clean, all good, if not, repeat the empty, renew, bleed etc sequence and chack again a week or two later.

Unusual to need to do several cycles of "part-changes" as described above until the fluid stays clean after a year/12000 miles so the single annual part-change usually does the trick.

Seems like you're making good progress though!

[Fastback]

Has any other fastback owner (mk2 and probably mk1) ever thought it was poor how the drainage points for the rear screen are? They drain in the bottom corners and then effectively track on to the tailgate seal. If that seal is not 100%, then water will enter the boot above the tail light. As you can see it is causing a point of rust on the seam seal already.





It is also possible to see here how the corner has become full and overflowed. It strikes me this is a point of stress that should eliminated. I have tried before with stick on seals but they don't seem to last, so I have come up with this;



which makes this;



I'm sure you will have already guessed but here it is fitted;







The part is made from PETg, so should be reasonably durable

The idea is, that whilst it is mechanically attached, I would also use some black 2mm seam sealer to waterproof the join. The deflector sits outside the boot seal thus diverting water into the tailgate gutter, bypassing the weakness altoghter.

Or is it another case of nobody else has this problem?

[scoobyh123]

I'm convinced it's a deliberate design fault Mark, along the lines of :



To put that in perspective :



It rusts between the top and bottom layers of metal where the spot weld is (was!) and due to insufficient seam-sealer at the factory, this is made easier. Once it rots through, it's an open channel for water straight into the boot/luggage area and then runs forward and down inside the rear sills.

Can't comment on whether your mod will work or not as i can't quite visualise the arrangement on the tailgate on the Fastback model but hopefully it will, let us know how it goes.

[mercedade]

Has any other fastback owner (mk2 and probably mk1) ever thought it was poor how the drainage points for the rear screen are? They drain in the bottom corners and then effectively track on to the tailgate seal. If that seal is not 100%, then water will enter the boot above the tail light. As you can see it is causing a point of rust on the seam seal already.





It is also possible to see here how the corner has become full and overflowed. It strikes me this is a point of stress that should eliminated. I have tried before with stick on seals but they don't seem to last, so I have come up with this;



which makes this;



I'm sure you will have already guessed but here it is fitted;







The part is made from PETg, so should be reasonably durable

The idea is, that whilst it is mechanically attached, I would also use some black 2mm seam sealer to waterproof the join. The deflector sits outside the boot seal thus diverting water into the tailgate gutter, bypassing the weakness altoghter.

Or is it another case of nobody else has this problem?

Mark, I hate how my boot is always wet (after changing basically everything I can think of) - definitely, definitely interested in hearing more about how successful this is.

[Fastback]

I have to say that my boots are mostly dry, the Sterling currently totally and I'm chasing down the last little bit in the Vitesse but it is only after a lot of time and effort. The areas that I have indentified should others find it useful are;

Sunroof drain - Yeah, yeah. We all know about them and cutting the ends off the rubber gromits.

Boot vents - Another silly design. Water cascades down the side of the car, behind the bumper and ingresses round the fitting. I think best done from the outside (remove bumper) with low modulus silicone.

Tail-Lights - Another challenged area as water pours on them from the tailgate/boot gutters. The foam fails over time so make new ones;



Template made (inset) and a new gaskets made from 6mm closed cell foam. I have also apllied some foam above the light on the body work to guide water round that weakness and down the raised mounting of the light. This is still in the test phase but is working.



Rear Quarter Light Windows - This is a big one. I have replaced all the foam seal with seam seal. It's a windows out job which leads to other worlds of hurt. The work is detailed earlier in this thread. I found that Captian Tolley does not work here but it does work on...

Quarter panel Seam - This is a bigger problem on the fastback due to the greater body flex. Under that fillet on the roof is a join which cracks and opens;



Loads of Captain Tolley in here over several days with drives in between applications to stress the join. I had water dripping onto my speaker grills (my finishers are not replaced yet) and also continuing down behind the lining.

I have also know water to come in at the bottom of the rear window probably due to debonding issues.

In addition I removed the tailgate seal, thoroughly cleaned and then lathered in with silicone including the slot where it fits onto the body of the car before replacing. I have also tried to set the 'bump stops' to get a nice close on the tailgate. The fluted stops on the tailgate itself are not adjustable but the flat ones on the body of the car are. I have smeared the tail-light gaskets with silicone as well.

The deflector is the latest addition to erradicate the problem. I need to tackle that small spot of rust first but it seems like a reasonable idea.

[Fastback]

I would certainly like to think that people post on here to share ideas and help their fellow 800 owners, Dave probably doing more than his fair share. And some perhaps a little bit of showing off too .

With that in mind, I am willing to print out the deflector for members if you would cover basic costs of postage plus a bit for energy (each one takes an hour, print head 245 deg, print surface 70 deg). This way we can all test the concept together and if needed modify the design but I think it's pretty sorted. This was actually my 7th version!

PM me if you're intesested.