Red1's red one
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Red1's red one
Hello,
Just got my car back from Harris coachworks in Dunstable. They have done a great job, getting rid of the rust on the rear arches, offside wing and swapping out the nearside wing. The replacement wing came from very tall Brad via another forum member (thank you to both). Whilst they were at it they have effectively painted every panel.
Thought you might like to see a quick picture and a recommendation of their work.
Just got my car back from Harris coachworks in Dunstable. They have done a great job, getting rid of the rust on the rear arches, offside wing and swapping out the nearside wing. The replacement wing came from very tall Brad via another forum member (thank you to both). Whilst they were at it they have effectively painted every panel.
Thought you might like to see a quick picture and a recommendation of their work.
Eric
N reg Sterling 4door 1995 8.27v6 mark 2a
N reg Sterling 4door 1995 8.27v6 mark 2a
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Re: Red1's red one
That looks super clean! Like a new car! What paint code is that?
Henrik
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Re: Red1's red one
Nice car - you simply can't go wrong with Nightfire red
Out in the desert with a 1998 Grand Cherokee V8, 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4L and a 1997 Chevy Tahoe V8. Back home: 1969 MGC GT
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Re: Red1's red one
Looking superb Eric and good to hear the name Very Tall Brad again too!
Dave
Dave
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Re: Red1's red one
Nightfire red, ofcourse! My mother and father had a Rover 25 in nightfire.Richard Moss wrote: ↑Sat Aug 18, 2018 12:36 pmNice car - you simply can't go wrong with Nightfire red
Henrik
Rover 820 Vitesse Coupe 180bhp -93 (Italy)
Rover 827 Vitesse manual (non cat) -89 (Spain)
Lexus GS450h -13
Austin Seven Special -36
Gone:
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Gone:
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Re: Red1's red one
Thanks. Here is another pic, a test for the Eagle eyed... What is missing on the car in this photo and does anyone have a spare?
Eric
N reg Sterling 4door 1995 8.27v6 mark 2a
N reg Sterling 4door 1995 8.27v6 mark 2a
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Re: Red1's red one
The rubber edging on the indicator. No I don't have one
Out in the desert with a 1998 Grand Cherokee V8, 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4L and a 1997 Chevy Tahoe V8. Back home: 1969 MGC GT
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Re: Red1's red one
Well done Richard.
I thought it might have taken a little bit more time but quite a few of you probably know every single bolt and fitting and so saw it immediately!
That is why this site is so good. Chapeau!
Later I found one of the rubber strips in the boot but I am still missing one.....
What do they do? Stop the indicator from bashing on the wing or some form of waterproofing? Does it matter they are gone?
I might post a request for them in the wanted section.
Eric
N reg Sterling 4door 1995 8.27v6 mark 2a
N reg Sterling 4door 1995 8.27v6 mark 2a
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Re: Red1's red one
Car's looking good Eric! Bodyshop has done a nice job!
As for the rubber channel section on the indicators, they're not available separately and are meant to be glued on. They perform two functions, one is to prevent chafing the bodywork and the second is a small amount of water-proofing. They also provide a nice "shadow gap" to the indicator but that's purely aesthetic. some like it, others don't.
The strip you've found in the boot, is it a left hand or right hand strip? Yes, they are handed! There is a slight "kick" on one end of the strip, this goes at the back of the indicator where it tucks in tighter to the wing.
If you lay the strip out on the table in front of you with the kick nearest you and the open section facing the table, if the kick goes to the left, it's for the right hand lens and if the kick goes to the right, it's for the left hand lens.
I'll have a rummage through my stash and see if i've got one, i've recently refurbished a couple of pairs of indicator lenses (modifying them at the same time to include DRLs) so might have a spare one. Would be handy to know which one you need though so worth checking which one you actually have.
As for the rubber channel section on the indicators, they're not available separately and are meant to be glued on. They perform two functions, one is to prevent chafing the bodywork and the second is a small amount of water-proofing. They also provide a nice "shadow gap" to the indicator but that's purely aesthetic. some like it, others don't.
The strip you've found in the boot, is it a left hand or right hand strip? Yes, they are handed! There is a slight "kick" on one end of the strip, this goes at the back of the indicator where it tucks in tighter to the wing.
If you lay the strip out on the table in front of you with the kick nearest you and the open section facing the table, if the kick goes to the left, it's for the right hand lens and if the kick goes to the right, it's for the left hand lens.
I'll have a rummage through my stash and see if i've got one, i've recently refurbished a couple of pairs of indicator lenses (modifying them at the same time to include DRLs) so might have a spare one. Would be handy to know which one you need though so worth checking which one you actually have.
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Re: Red1's red one
Thanks, yes I noticed the kinked end. I will check and let you know. Many thanks Dave
Eric
N reg Sterling 4door 1995 8.27v6 mark 2a
N reg Sterling 4door 1995 8.27v6 mark 2a
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Re: Red1's red one
So....
When placed with the kick closest to me and the groove facing down the kick points to the right as per this not so great photo.
If I understand correctly then I have the nearside strip and the kick end fits deeper into the wing end of the indicator rather than closer to the headlight. That makes sense from what I remember when it was fitted.
I have my fingers crossed that you have the other side!
Thanks again for looking to see if you have one.
When placed with the kick closest to me and the groove facing down the kick points to the right as per this not so great photo.
If I understand correctly then I have the nearside strip and the kick end fits deeper into the wing end of the indicator rather than closer to the headlight. That makes sense from what I remember when it was fitted.
I have my fingers crossed that you have the other side!
Thanks again for looking to see if you have one.
Eric
N reg Sterling 4door 1995 8.27v6 mark 2a
N reg Sterling 4door 1995 8.27v6 mark 2a
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Re: Red1's red one
The one i thought i definitely had would have been another left one Eric but it wasn't where i thought it was. I'll have to look in my other stash now to see if i have any left at all as i remembered last night that the pair of indicators i refurbished and modified were the last spare pair i had. I might have a couple of others but not in pairs, hopefully there will be a right hand one and/or a rubber.
It'll take me a couple of days to get to the other stash, it's planned for the weekend at the moment, weather permitting!
It'll take me a couple of days to get to the other stash, it's planned for the weekend at the moment, weather permitting!
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Re: Red1's red one
Looking great, Eric, glad Herbie sorted you out.
Did they do all the trim dismantling and rebuilding pre and post painting?
Did they do all the trim dismantling and rebuilding pre and post painting?
Mark
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Re: Red1's red one
Hi Mark,
Good to hear from you.
Yes they did it all, grille, boot badges, wings etc. Some of the door and roof rubbers were left in place as they said it was too fragile to remove. All in all the job was done well and now I am scared to drive it anywhere and getting stressed about having to wash it for the first time
Good to hear from you.
Yes they did it all, grille, boot badges, wings etc. Some of the door and roof rubbers were left in place as they said it was too fragile to remove. All in all the job was done well and now I am scared to drive it anywhere and getting stressed about having to wash it for the first time
Eric
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Re: Red1's red one
Wash it very carefully, microfibe cloth. 2 bucket system with a grit guard in the bottom of each bucket. Dry with a fresh clean microfibre towel.
Polish the paint, seal it, then wax it. If you want, you can then add a decent ceramic coating to fully protect the paint.
Beware about ceramic coatings though. They are hard, and can generally only be removed by light sanding, and unlike polishes and other cutting compounds do NOT reduce or hide paint imperfections.
Your paint (Laquer) should be completely free of orange peel (ripples and dips) if you apply a ceramic coat.
If it isnt, then the finest (2000/3000) wet and dry paper can be used on the laquer VERY lightly with water to remove these once the paint laquer is fully hard. Dont be tempted to use an orbital polisher on the paint unless you know what you are doing. It is very easy to burn through paint, especially new paint.
Any products you apply to your car are there to protect the paint and laquer, and the more wax you apply, the better and deeper the shine will be. You can ceramic over wax too, and i recomoend that when the paint is 100% A-OK.
Use only DECENT products (Chemical Guys, Poor Boys, Dodo Juice), not the generic crap you get in halfords althoug a few of those are OK.
Investing in decent cleaning (Detailing) products will greatly enhance and preserve your pride and joy.
If you need any further advice, PM me.
If you know al lthis already, eggs are best sucked when a liquid or semi solid
Polish the paint, seal it, then wax it. If you want, you can then add a decent ceramic coating to fully protect the paint.
Beware about ceramic coatings though. They are hard, and can generally only be removed by light sanding, and unlike polishes and other cutting compounds do NOT reduce or hide paint imperfections.
Your paint (Laquer) should be completely free of orange peel (ripples and dips) if you apply a ceramic coat.
If it isnt, then the finest (2000/3000) wet and dry paper can be used on the laquer VERY lightly with water to remove these once the paint laquer is fully hard. Dont be tempted to use an orbital polisher on the paint unless you know what you are doing. It is very easy to burn through paint, especially new paint.
Any products you apply to your car are there to protect the paint and laquer, and the more wax you apply, the better and deeper the shine will be. You can ceramic over wax too, and i recomoend that when the paint is 100% A-OK.
Use only DECENT products (Chemical Guys, Poor Boys, Dodo Juice), not the generic crap you get in halfords althoug a few of those are OK.
Investing in decent cleaning (Detailing) products will greatly enhance and preserve your pride and joy.
If you need any further advice, PM me.
If you know al lthis already, eggs are best sucked when a liquid or semi solid
Phil B
95 827 Stirling: Nightfire Saloon.
96 Coupé 827 Manual White Gold.
97 Coupé 820 Vitesse Gunmetal.
99 820 Vitesse Nightfire Fastback. SERIOUS amount of welding done. Lived in a fettid garage for years.
EX 1994 Saloon Rover 827 SLi White Gold- RIP.
95 827 Stirling: Nightfire Saloon.
96 Coupé 827 Manual White Gold.
97 Coupé 820 Vitesse Gunmetal.
99 820 Vitesse Nightfire Fastback. SERIOUS amount of welding done. Lived in a fettid garage for years.
EX 1994 Saloon Rover 827 SLi White Gold- RIP.
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